Heating, Cooling and HVAC

The flying caris on itsway.->….

An American company Terrafugia Transition, based near Boston, is set to unveil the dual-purpose car-cum-plane vehicle called ‘The Flying Car‘ as early as 2011. The two-seater vehicle can let you fly if you wish to avoid the congested city traffic.

If you want to drive on the road, just touch the road. The vehicle will fold up its wings in 30 seconds and transform itself into a car.

“The Flying Car” can travel up to 725 kilometres in the air at a speed of more than 115 kilometres per hour.

Fuelled by gasoline, it has front wheel drive on the road and a propeller for flight.

With its wings folded, it can be parked in your ordinary car garage.

Its initial cost is expected to be around $200,000 (nearly Rs.1 crore), says the company which has already orders for 60 vehicles.

The CEO of the company told Canadian TV (CTV) network here that they have successfully test-flown “The Flying Car” as many as 28 times.

The tests have shown that the vehicle can drive, fly and switch from being a plane to a car in just 30 seconds.

“It (testing) has been very successful,” Carl Dietrich, co-founder and CEO of Terrafugia, told the television network.

” We have got a very good handling vehicle and our test pilot said that the flights were just remarkably unremarkable - it just flies like a really nice, little airplane,” he said.

He said this miracle vehicle will ease problems for pilots who currently face problems like weather which sometimes doesn’t allow them to take off or land.

“This vehicle allows a pilot any time, if the weather changes, to divert to the nearest airport, fold up their wings and drive safely under the weather.”

“The Transition (the name for “The Flying Car” is not designed to replace the automobile. However, it will solve transportation issues for a variety of circumstances,” company vice president Richard Gersh said.

Asked whether the vehicle will be mass produced one day, he said: “That is certainly a possibility, but a number of years away.”

He said the vehicle will be able travel on ordinary roads.
“Our depositors represent a wide-cross section in terms of age, interests, and intended use of the vehicle. We have deposits from both experienced pilots and non-pilots who intend to earn their Sport Pilot certificate,” said the vice president of Terrafugia.

Set up in 2006, Terrafugia is run by trained aeronautical engineers and MBAs from the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT).

Source: The Times Of India

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The world’s first mass-produced zero-emission minicar, the “i-MiEV“, is all set to debut in Japan next month, which promises to usher in a  new age of driving that does not require fossil fuel.
.
Developed by the Mitsubishi Motors Corporation, the car has neither an engine nor a muffler and does not need an internal combustion engine because it runs on a motor charged with electricity.

..

The i-MiEV can travel 160 kilometers on its lithium-ion battery pack, but it will take 14 hours to fully recharge the battery from a 100-volt household power outlet.

It emits no carbon dioxide. Even when taking into account CO2 emissions at the power plants that generate the power needed for charging the car, it emits only about one-third of the CO2 of a gasoline minicar

Source: The Times Of India

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Is there radon in granite countertops?

Granite is a natural mineral formed by the earth’s geological processes. It is quarried and processed toproduce commercial products such as countertops. It is possible for any granitesample to contain varying concentrations of uranium that can produce radon gas, a source of alpha and beta particles and gamma rays. Some granite used for countertops may contribute variably to indoor radon levels. At this time, EPA does not believe sufficient data exist to conclude that the types of granite commonly used in countertops are significantly increasing indoor radon levels. However, the total number of variables associated with radon release from granite countertops makes predicting the health risk in a particular home very difficult. Variables include 1) total surface area of the granite, 2) the total percentage of the granite made up of uranium, 3) are the exposed surfaces of the granite sealed or unsealed, and 4) what other radon sources are contributing to the total radon inside a dwelling. EPA estimates that radon from soil underneath a house contributes 95% or more of all indoor radon. As such, while any granite in a home may contribute some very small percentage of indoor radon, the US EPA recommends testing the total indoor radon level, and if necessary acting to reduce the amount of soil-produced radon gas as the primary means for indoor radon gas reduction.

How can  radon in granite countertops be tested ?

While a radon testing professional can test your home for radon, to EPA’s knowledge, there is no agreed-upon method specifically for measuring radon or radiation from granite countertops. Direct measurements in a building of the gamma radiation or radon emanation from a material, such as granite, is not a reliable indicator of radon concentrations that will be in the air you breathe.

Attempts to use such measurements for estimating risk are subject to large errors due to the:
a) wide variability of radon emanation rates across the surface of granite.
b) significant variability in ventilation rates from home to home and room to room.
c) volume of space that the building material is contained in.

What should you do to address the radon risk in my home if I have granite countertops ?
To reduce radon risk you should first test the air in your home to determine the radon level. This can be done using a test kits from a Kansas county extension office, or a retail outlet, or by hiring a nationally certified radon measurement professional. Follow test kit instructions and EPA guidance for test kit placement in your home. At the same time, perform another test in the room where the granite countertop or other suspect building material exists. You may also want to test in a highly occupied room, like your bedroom. (Use different rooms if these locations are on the same floor.) Place the test devices at least 20 inches off the floor according to testing protocols and at least 20 inches away from the countertop or suspect material. If any of the test results are at or above the EPA recommended action levels retest these areas to confirm the initial results. You can find professionals listed at http://www.kansasradonprogram.org/

How can radon levels be reduced?
The best approach to reduce radon in the home is to install an active soil depressurization system (ASD) and reduce the entry of radon coming from the soil. We recommend using a qualified radon mitigation professional to design and install the appropriate radon reduction system. Only in extreme cases would removal of the granite be necessary to reduce the radon concentration, assuming appropriate measurements confirm it as the significant source. It is far more effective in terms of risk reduction to take steps to mitigate radon concentrations throughout the home. The cost of such mitigation would likely be much less than the cost of replacing kitchen countertops and would very likely result in a much greater
overall risk reduction.

Are there regulations or research addressing granite in countertops concerns?
There are currently no regulations concerning radiation levels in countertops. EPA is aware of a few studies that are inconclusive in determining what level, if any, of radon is generally coming from granite countertops. EPA will continue to monitor and analyze the evolving research on this issue and will update its recommendations as appropriate.

To learn more about radon, read the Citizen’s Guide at www.epa.gov/radon/pubs/citguide.html

Source:http://www.kansasradonprogram.org/factsheets/Aug%208%202008_KS%20Radon%20and%20Granite%20Counter%20Tops_Fact%20Sheet.pdf

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Is it better to leave the fan running continuously with the air conditioner or to place it in the automatic position?
It is more efficient to leave the thermostat in the automatic position.
The fan consumes only one-tenth the energy of the compressor, but when it runs continuously, the fan can cost up to $30 a month.

This amount can be reduced by cycling the fan only when it’s needed.
Additionally, the air conditioner will dehumidify the only air when the compressor is running. However, if the fan remains on after the compressor cycles off, some moisture on the coil will re-evaporate. This moisture must be removed during the next compressor cycle, which increases the energy consumption.

If air distribution is poor within the home or business and hot spots or very cold areas result, the fan can be run to even out the temperatures.

However, the fan should be set to the auto position when the building is unoccupied. Even better, shut the air conditioner off or raise the thermostat setting when leaving the building.

Will I save energy by turning off my air conditioner when I leave home, or am I better off just letting it run?
If gone for four hours or more, more energy will be saved by turning off the air conditioner or turning up the thermostat.

During the day, keep windows shut and close curtains or blinds on any windows that will be exposed to sunlight.

The thermal mass of the house will probably keep the indoor temperature well below the outdoor temperature, and the house should cool quickly when the air conditioner is restarted. Use a programmable thermostat or timer to turn on the air conditioner 30 to 45 minutes before the expected arrival home. If the home is still warm upon arrival, turn on a fan to create air movement.

Moving air can make the air feel about four degrees cooler than it really is.

Can you plant bushes to hide the outside of my air conditioner?
When landscaping around an outside condensing unit, remember that the air conditioner must reject all the heat from a home.

Although it is possible to plant bushes near the condenser, leave room for adequate air circulation. Without good air circulation, the temperature near the condensing unit will rise. The higher temperature will reduce the capacity of the air conditioner, causing it to work harder and provide less cooling. This could also kill the shrubbery.

If the shrubs will not form a continuous wall around the unit, plant them so that, when they mature, there will be three feet of clearance. If the shrubs will be continuous, then allow five feet of clearance.

Are there any simple checks I can perform to see if my air conditioner is operating properly?
Check a few items that should indicate if the air conditioner has problems.
First, check the two lines connected to the outside of the air conditioner.

The larger on -- the suction line — should be cool to the touch. It should not be so cold, however, that frost develops.

The smaller line -- the high pressure line — should be warm, but not hot. It should be 20 to 30 degrees warmer than the outside temperature. In extreme cases, it will be hot to the touch, so be cautious. If this is the case, call a service technician.

Some air conditioners are equipped with a sight glass in the high-pressure line (the small line). The glass should be clear, with no bubbles visible, while the system is running. Cloudy liquid in the sight glass may indicate contamination of the system.

One final check is to measure the temperature of the air as it leaves the register. It should be 15-20 degrees cooler than the room temperature.

If the building is warm, humid, or if the ductwork is not insulated, then there may be smaller temperature differences.

These guides are not intended to eliminate the need for an annual check by a qualified service person. If problems are suspected, call for help from someone familiar with air conditioners.

Would I be better off using several window air conditioners?
Using multiple window air conditioners has both advantages and disadvantages. A distinct advantage of window units is that they can operate individually. This flexibility allows cooling only the occupied room rather than the entire house.

A central system is more convenient to operate when cooling the entire home continually, and possibly at a lower cost of operation.

If sound level is a consideration in the home, keep in mind that window units are typically noisier than central air conditioning.

In terms of efficiency, top-of-the-line central units are generally more efficient than window units.
Look at the seasonal energy-efficiency ratio (SEER) when selecting units — the higher the SEER, the higher the efficiency under similar conditions.

Since there are positives and negatives about window units and central systems, consider personal needs and preferences before choosing a system.

What is a ton of air conditioning?
A ton is the measure of the cooling capacity of an air-conditioning unit. It is an indication of the rate that the unit removes heat from a building.

One ton of air conditioning removes 12,000 British thermal units (Btu) of heat an hour. The term was derived from the time when ice was used for refrigeration. One ton of air-conditioner cooling capacity removes the same amount of heat required to melt 2,000 pounds, or one ton, of ice in 24 hours.

Typically, residential central air conditioners will range in capacity from one and one-half to four tons. Window units will many times be rated in Btu per hour. For example, a 6,000 Btu/hr. window unit would have the capacity of one-half ton.

Sources :http://www.engext.ksu.edu/ees/henergy/space/air.html#adding

The simplest, least expensive method to keep a home cool is shading walls, windows, and the roof.

Interior shades are inexpensive and easy to install. Use pull-down or Venetian blinds in addition to regular window coverings. Window coverings should be light colored (white or beige).
There are several ways to keep a home cool without overusing the air conditioner. Of these options, install shades first. Compare utility bills before and after the installation of shades. If satisfied with the savings, stop there, but if savings are not significant, look into other options. One option to consider is exterior awnings. They are more expensive than interior shades, but would be a great way to shade south windows.

Natural shading is another way to block heat gain in summer. For example, plant broad-leafed trees on the south and west sides of the home. They shade a home in summer months and will let in sunlight during winter months when they have shed their leaves.

Certain steps will help keep a home warm in winter and will help cool it during the summer. Insulated walls and roof reduce heat gain, just as they lower heat loss in winter. As a general rule, ceiling insulation should have an R-value of 35 to 45, and walls from 19 to 27. A light-colored roof also decreases heat gain.

Use the above suggestions, coupled with circulating fans inside the home, and utility bills will be less than if air conditioning was the only cooling source

Sources:http://www.engext.ksu.edu/ees/henergy/space/air.html#adding

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First, inspect the envelope of the home. The envelope is composed of the roof, ceilings, walls, floors, windows, and doors. Various opportunities exist for improving energy efficiency, such as insulation, radiant barriers, and weatherstripping. Insulation levels as high as R-38 in the attic are appropriate. It is permissible to mix insulation types, such as covering fiberglass with cellulose. Any exposed ductwork in the attic also should be sealed and insulated.

Weatherstripping and caulking reduce both heating and cooling costs. Inspect existing weatherstripping for wear and possible replacement.

In addition to caulking window and door frames, inspect for hidden cracks such as those that exist along foundations, or where exterior wiring or air-conditioning lines may penetrate the wall.
South-facing windows can be a real benefit during the heating season but can add significantly to the cooling load.

It is preferable to block the sunlight before it penetrates the window. Although a drape will delay the instantaneous solar gain, it’s more effective to stop the sunlight completely by using exterior shading or reflective blinds.

Deciduous trees provide an excellent means for natural shading in the summer, yet allow exposure of the window in the winter. Removable exterior awnings can provide a similar advantage.

Unventilated attics can reach high temperatures during the summer, contributing considerably to the cooling load in the home.

Attics should be properly ventilated by having sufficient openings along the low side of the attic, such as in soffits as well as openings along the high side of the roof for exhaust.

For ventilation, have at least one square inch of free opening for every square foot of attic space. Openings should be distributed equally between the low and high sides of the attic. Remember that screens and louvers block up to 50 percent of the ventilation area.

Move air in and through the home without relying on an air conditioner. When the outdoor air is cool, yet the home is warm, a whole-house fan, which draws air through open windows and discharges into the attic, may provide all the cooling necessary.

Additional attic ventilation is necessary when using a whole-house fan.
Have one square foot of free opening for every 750 cubic foot per minute (cfm) of air moved by the whole-house fan.

Within the home, portable fans or ceiling fans can provide some cooling relief.

Household appliances can add considerably to the cooling load in a home. Refrigerator condenser coils should be cleaned at least twice annually.

Inspect the gasket around the refrigerator door to assure that it has not worn and needs to be replaced. The cooking range and clothes dryer should be vented to the outdoors, as should exhaust fans in bathrooms.

Heat loss from a water heater adds both to water-heating costs as well as air-conditioning costs. A water heater that is warm to the touch should be insulated with a water-heater insulating jacket.
Thermostats on water heaters should be turned down to provide hot water at the tap no greater than 140 degrees.

Prepare a furnace for summer by replacing or cleaning the air filter, and lubricating, where possible, any bearings on the blower or motor. Consider extinguishing the pilot light if the furnace is equipped with a pilot. Many new furnaces use an electronic device for igniting the flame whenever the thermostat calls for heat rather than using a standing pilot light.

This will probably not result in a significant reduction in gas costs; however, the pilot does contribute a small amount of heat to the home that then must be removed by the air conditioner. Contrary to some earlier information, extinguishing the pilot light will not shorten the life of the furnace. Be sure that if the furnace is equipped with a central humidifier that it is turned off, drained, and cleaned.

An air conditioner needs adequate air flow through the condenser for the unit to operate at maximum efficiency. Plantings and fencing should be no closer than three feet to the condensing unit.

The condensing unit should be cleaned annually by carefully removing any debris from the fins of the condenser.

Consider hiring an air-conditioning service contractor to clean the condenser thoroughly, particularly if it has not received maintenance in the last two or three years.

Service contractors will use a variety of cleaning solutions to remove any buildup on the condenser fins as well as straighten any fins which may have been damaged, lubricate any exposed bearings, and check for appropriate refrigerant levels in the air conditioner.

Taking advantage of these and other opportunities should help to reduce cooling costs this summer.

Sources: http://www.engext.ksu.edu/ees/henergy/space/air.html#adding

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There are several issues to consider when adding central air conditioning to an existing heating system.

If a home has an older heating system with no provisions for central air conditioning, the ductwork may be smaller than what is required for air conditioning. Increase the fan speed to compensate for the ductwork. A larger motor often is required to achieve this higher flow rate.
In extreme cases, it may be necessary to replace the supply ductwork.

The location of the return-air registers also plays a role in comfort. In older homes, there were often no return-air registers installed on the second floor of a two-story home. It is difficult to cool the second story if this is the case. It may be necessary to install return-air ductwork.
Another consideration is the requirement for a floor drain below the furnace level. Air conditioners produce condensate when they operate. This condensate is the consequence of removing moisture from the air.

If a floor drain is not available below the level of the furnace, it is possible to purchase a small condensate pump set. For approximately $60, this set will pump the condensate to a convenient disposal site.

A final consideration is the arrangement of the ductwork at the furnace outlet. The ductwork around the furnace must leave sufficient room for the installation of the cooling coil. When installing central air, it is an excellent time to check the supply and return air ducts for leaks. Inadequate air flow across the cooling coil is the No. 1 cause for poor air-conditioning system performance.

Sources:http://www.engext.ksu.edu/ees/henergy/space/air.html#adding

Is it being phased out like the refrigerant in your car?

Unless a central home air conditioner is relatively new, the refrigerant used is R22. It is chemically different from the refrigerant used in an auto and has only one-twentieth the impact on stratospheric ozone. Because it is not as harmful to the ozone layer, it is not scheduled for phase-out until 2020.

Some air-conditioner manufacturers are offering equipment filled with refrigerants that pose no harm to the atmosphere. The operating efficiency of these air conditioners is no higher than those filled with R22.

These products may carry a higher price, but the refrigerants will be available after the scheduled 2020 phase-out of R22.

Sources:http://www.engext.ksu.edu/ees/henergy/space/air.html#new

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When buying a new central air conditioner, what should you look for to ensure a high-efficiency unit that will last?

One of the best guides to the efficiency of an air conditioner unit is the seasonal energy efficiency rating (SEER).The higher the SEER, the more efficient the unit will be. Federal legislation dictates a minimum SEER rating of 10 for central air conditioners sold in the residential marketplace. Air conditioning units are now available with SEER ratings as high as 16.

Long life and ease of service are two other important considerations when purchasing an air conditioner. One recent development in compressor design, the scroll compressor, offers a long, trouble-free life and low noise level. Scroll compressors are also more efficient than conventional compressors. Scroll compressors are often used on units with a SEER of 12 or greater. When receiving bids, be sure to ask if the unit uses a scroll compressor.

Contact at least three air-conditioning service companies in the area to obtain bids for comparison of features, warranties, and efficiency. Be sure to carefully evaluate the proposed size of the units. Purchasing a properly sized unit is critical to achieving good performance

Why is it important to properly size an air conditioner?
Today, it is recognized that accurately sized, or even slightly undersized air-conditioning equipment, will result in greater operating economy and improved comfort because the air conditioner cycles on and off less often. This reduces wear and tear on the compressor, increases efficiency, and improves humidity control.

Determining the proper size for a residential air-conditioning system calls for a cooling load analysis. This procedure takes into account the size of the home, insulation levels, roof color, orientation of windows, shading of windows, tightness of construction, and number of occupants.

However, on extremely hot days, usually less than three percent of a normal cooling season, the indoor temperature may rise or swing upward a few degrees Fahrenheit during the hottest part of the day.

This is a small price to pay for improved performance and comfort during the balance of the cooling season.

Furthermore, comfort can be easily maintained during a designed temperature swing by using a fan to create air movement and delaying activities, such as cooking, that produce internal heat gain until the air conditioner has recovered.

A cooling load analysis of a home can be performed by most heating and air-conditioning contractors or by an independent energy auditor.

Sources:http://www.engext.ksu.edu/ees/henergy/space/air.html#new

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Definition:
SEER stands for seasonal energy-efficiency rating. This rating measures how well an air conditioner uses energy throughout the cooling season.

SEER Ratings & Units;
The SEER is equal to Btus of cooling supplied during the year divided by kilowatt-hours of electricity consumed in a year. The higher the SEER rating, the more efficient the air conditioner will be.

For example, a unit with a cooling capacity of 24,000 BTU that consumes 2,400 kilowatts of electricity would have a SEER of 24,000/2,400, or 10. Units with high SEERs will cost more initially, but the energy savings throughout their lifetime will more than make up for the cost difference.

When comparing SEER ratings of different air conditioners, compare only those with similar capacities (Btu).

Cost effectiveness
It is cost-effective to buy high-efficiency, air-conditioning units because if the unit serves a home or business that air conditions throughout the summer rather than on an intermittent schedule. The additional cost of the higher efficiency units can be justified from the energy savings.

The minimum seasonal energy-efficiency rating (SEER) is 10, but the Department of Energy is considering increasing the minimum to a SEER of 12.

Homeowners and business operators can justify the purchase of air conditioners with a SEER of 13 or 14 in applications where energy costs are high or the cooling season is long. In buildings used less frequently, such as churches and meeting rooms, energy savings usually won’t offset the cost of the highest efficiency units.

Sources:http://www.engext.ksu.edu/ees/henergy/space/air.html#SEER

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Introduction:

Global warming is an example of global climatic change. To understand the concept of global warming and make decisions about how to respond to the seemingly contradictory information received from various sources, it is important to distinguish between climate and weather. Weather applies to short-term changes in properties of the lower atmosphere such as temperature, relative humidity, precipitation, cloud cover, barometric pressure, and wind speed. Climate is the general pattern of weather conditions, seasonalvariation, and weather extremes over a long time—at least thirty years. A summer with record high temperatures is not a signal that global warming is occurring. A winter with record cold is not proof that global warming is not occurring. Climate change, especially global climate change, must be determined from global averages of weather conditions collected, averaged, and compared over decades.
………………….
“

Humans would survive climate changes of this magnitude, but social and political organizations probably would not. Scientists know this because past civilizations have not survived similar climate changes. Around 1000 C. E. , a well-established Norse colony thrived in what is now southern Greenland. The colony had been established during a relatively warm period when the temperatures in the area were 2 to 4°C (4 to 7°F) above average. It vanished almost without trace as the climate returned to normal, an ice sheet movedback over pastures, and the advancing sea ice cut off communications. That small temperature change made the difference between a thriving colony and disaster.
…………………..

Earth’s climate is still changing. Research strongly indicates that Earth is gradually warming up. According to the United States Environmental Protection Agency, the best estimates are that Earth’s temperature has increased by 0.5°C (1.0°F) in the last century, precipitation has increased by 1 percent, and sea level has risen by 2 to 5 centimeters (1.0 to 2.0 inches). This is strong evidence for a small but significant increase in global average temperature. Almost all scientists agree with these facts. However, scientists cannot agree on what causes global warming. Many researchers are convinced the data show unequivocally that global warming is directly related to the increase in greenhouse gases such as carbon dioxide. Others feel the data simply indicate a short-term climatic phenomenon.

The “greenhouse” effect is somewhat misnamed. A greenhouse gets warm on a sunny winter day because the sunlight passes through the glass, warming the plants and other surfaces in the greenhouse. The plants warmthe air, but the warm air cannot escape, so the temperature in the greenhouse rises. The planetary greenhouse effect operates a little differently. Infrared radiation from the sun passes through the atmosphere and warms the surface of Earth. As the surface warms, it also radiates infrared. However, since the temperature of Earth is much lower than the temperature of the surface of the sun, the infrared radiation emitted by the ground, building, rocks, and plants has a much longer wavelength. Radiation of this longer wavelength cannot pass through the atmosphere, and is absorbed by the air or reflected back to the ground.

A little greenhouse effect is a good thing. If it were not for the greenhouse effect, Earth’s average surface temperature would be well below the freezing point of water and life could not exist. The question is, can we have too much of a good thing? Is it possible that rising temperatures on Earth are due to increased levels of greenhouse gases in the atmosphere?

Greenhouse Gases..
There are several greenhouse gases. Naturally occurring greenhouse gases include water vapor, carbon dioxide, methane (from plant decay and other sources), nitrous oxide (from volcanoes), and ozone. All these gases can also result from human activity. Carbon dioxide is released when fossil fuels are burned. Methane is emitted from livestock operations and the decomposition of organic waste. Nitrous oxide is emitted by internal combustion engines and by the burning of solid waste. Several synthetic materials are powerful greenhouse gases, including hydrofluorocarbons, perfluorocarbons, and sulfur hexafluoride.

Of all the greenhouse gases, carbon dioxide causes the most concern and is therefore closely monitored. Scientists know that carbon dioxide levels in the atmosphere have increased steadily since the beginning of the Industrial Revolution. Most scientists also agree that the average surface temperature of Earth has increased by about 0.5°C (1°F) over the last 100 years. In addition, most scientists now think there is a direct correlation between the increase of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere and the increase in the global average temperature. What remains uncertain is what will happen in the future and what should be done about it. Although the consensus among scientists is that Earth’s temperature will continue to increase over the next 100 years, there is no consensus on the size of the increase. Estimates range from 1°C (2°F) to over 5°C (9°F). A 10°C rise will have little effect and is no cause for alarm. However, a 5°C rise could have disastrous consequences. Sea level could rise by 100 meters (330 feet), deserts could expand dramatically, and precipitation patterns would change in unpredictable ways.

Controversy Over Global Warming
Discussions about global warming have become intensely political, with “conservatives” and “liberals” taking contradictory positions. Two questions related to global warming should be discussed and debated. The first question is whether global warming is occurring and whether humans are causing it. The second question is this—if global warming is occurring and humans are causing it, what should be done about it? This second question is clearly a matter of public policy and political process. Public media,Congress, and other public forums are the appropriate arenas for the debate about this question.

Many national governments and international organizations continue to raise concerns about global warming and the possible link to carbon dioxide emissions. Most countries are firmly committed to strengthening international response to risks of adverse climate change. Since gases emitted into the atmosphere do not recognize political boundaries, this is a legitimate question of international concern. The United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change currently provides a vehicle for discussion and continuing scientific research into this difficult problem.

You may click to see:->
5 Deadliest Effects of Global Warming

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Sources: http://www.bookrags.com/research/global-warming-ansc-02/

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Before you consider upgrading your cooling equipment, the cheapest way to save money and energy from cooling is to reduce the need for mechanical air conditioning in the first place. This can be done in several ways (click on the links to learn more):

1. Insulate and tighten your house
Improving insulation and air sealing prevents heat from entering your house. Your highest priority should be to check insulation levels and air leaks between your living space and the attic.

2. Get rid of inefficient appliances
Inefficient appliances give off a lot of heat. Especially consider replacing or discarding old or auxiliary refrigerators; replace incandescent light bulbs with fluorescents; and unplug electronic equipment when not in use.

3. Consider “cool” exterior finishes
When replacing your roof or painting your house, using light-colored or other “cool” roofing and siding products can reduce your peak cooling demand by 10-15%. There are a number of roofing products that can dramatically cut down on heat gain without blinding the neighbors.

4. Shade or improve windows
To keep high-angle summer sun out, consider horizontal trellises for your east and west-facing windows. Protect south-facing windows with deciduous trees or climbing foliage so you can take advantage of low-angle sun in the winter, when the leaves fall. New windows on those walls that get the most summer sun should have low-e glazings to block unwanted heat gain.

5. Cool with air movement and ventilation
Fan operation uses less energy than air conditioning and can be adequate for attaining desired comfort levels unless you live in a very humid climate.

Ceiling fans. Ceiling fans cool by creating a low-level “wind chill” effect throughout a room. As long as indoor humidity isn’t stifling, they can be quite effective. Just remember that a fan cools people — it doesn’t actually reduce room temperature — so turn it off when you leave the room.

House fans. Unless you live in a very humid climate, installing a large fan in your top-floor ceiling is a very effective way of cooling your whole house down without central AC. These fans suck air through the house, inducing a strong draft in rooms where windows are open as it pulls cooler, outdoor air inside. Check with your local home improvement retailer about available products and installation.

.
Find a Good Contractor:
Because no two houses are alike, it is very difficult to advise what kind of new cooling system will be the most appropriate, efficient and cost-effective for your house. That is why the first step in replacing your system is finding a contractor who has experience in high-efficiency systems.

*Read our list of tips on choosing a contractor. Skilled air conditioner and heat pump technicians should always perform a cooling load calculation to determine proper sizing before making a recommendation.

*Have your contractor check all ducts before installing a new system. All ducts must be correctly examined to make sure they are sealed and insulated (where outside the building envelope) with supply and return systems balanced.

*If you do not already have a relationship with a contractor you can trust, find a contractor that employs technicians with North American Technician Excellence (NATE) training or ENERGY STAR experience. Listings are found at www.natex.org ((877) 420-NATE) or www.acca.org.

*If you are interested in installing a ground-source heat pump, the Geothermal Heat Pump Consortium lists contractors that specialize in this equipment.

Sources:http://aceee.org/consumerguide/cooling.htm

Lighting
* Don’t leave lights on when no one is in the room. If you are going to be out of the room for more than five minutes, turn off the light.

* If you know of a light that everyone fgov.inets to turn off, make a sticker or a sign to hang next to the switch that says “Lights Out!” or “Don’t Forget!”

* Where possible, use compact fluorescent light bulbs. Those funny-looking bulbs produce the same amount of light by using 1/4 of the electricity. Plus, they last for years and years without burning out.

* Make lighting control as “local” as possible

* Adopt light coloured walls and ceilings

* Think about illumination concept & lighting control system for a new installation well in advance

* Maximise the use of daylight

* Replace lamps after failure by new energy efficient types (like the 36 W fluorescent lamps) and use the right type of lamps for the right purpose (don’t use the CFLs in bathrooms, store rooms, etc., where switching frequency is more and usage time is less)

* Ensure the correct disposal of lamps, particularly the fluorescent ones which result in mercury pollution

* Switch off lights when it is not needed

* Keep room surfaces, lamps and shades clean

Fridge
* Refrigerator not to be installed in areas where temperature is comparatively high or where there is no proper ventilation to carry away the heat from the condensor coils.

* Switch off your refrigerator when you go on holidays provided no decay prone materials are inside.

* Periodically clean the freezer

* The choice of a refrigerator or a freezer is difficult because of the varieties and makes that are available.

* Determine the right size, type and features depending upon our requirement (and not according to what our neighbours/relatives/friends possess).

* Note that any additional comfort feature may consume more power and therefore more running cost.

* Ask for the energy consumption figure for different models before finally taking a decision.

* Do not put meals or drinks in a refrigerator

* Choose the right temperature

* Do not leave the door open for a long time

* Do not frequently open and close the door; proper planning would help in this

* Cover the cooked meals when you put them in the refrigerator

Audio and Video
* The size of the equipment purchased should meet the requirements as closely as possible.

* Wide screen televisions with stereo or surround sound are less energy efficient than televisions with more basic functions.

* We should insist that suppliers provide full details of energy consumption and name plate ratings.

* Do not leave televisions, video cassette recorders or music system on standby. Leaving any equipment in standby mode is wastage of energy.

* Televisions, video cassette recorders and music system require almost no time to become fully operational and should not be left in standby mode. (off using remote controls).

Computers
* Do not turn on your computer until you need to use it, and turn it off when you are finished.

* Set your computer to go into “sleep” mode when not in use.

* Computer peripherals such as scanners and printers also consume electricity; turn them off when they are not being used.

* Take advantage of the energy saving features like an energy saving screen saver that will automatically put the monitor into sleep mode after a specified period of inactivity.

* A computer with a low-profile or “small form factor” chassis generally consumes less energy than a mini-tower or full-sized desktop machine. (The larger machines require more robust power supplies to accommodate expansion options such as additional drives or plug-in cards. Often the expansion capabilities are not used.) Laptop computers are even more efficient.

* Flat-panel displays, although more expensive than conventional (CRT) monitors, are far more energy efficient. They are also more space efficient.

* A shared, networked printer can be more efficient than purchasing a personal printer for each individual in an office. Also consider getting a printer with duplex capability to allow printing on both sides of a sheet of paper. Finally, if you are looking for a personal printer, note that inkjet printers consume much less electricity than laser printers.

* Configuring a computer to save electricity is easy. Activate your computer’s power management features by following the Windows configuration instructions below

Windows 98/ME/2000/XP:
1. Click the Start menu and select “Settings”
2. Select “Control Panel”
3. In the window that opens, double-click “Power Management”
4. Click the “Power Schemes” tab at the top of the window
5. Select “Home/Office Desk”
6. Set “Turn off monitor” and/or “Turn off hard disks” to 30 minutes

Don’t Leave Things Turned On
* Turn off the TV when no one is watching it.

* The same goes for computers, radios and stereos - if no one is using it, turn it off. T

* Turn off all the appliances at the surge protector/control strip - that four- or six-plug extension chord that you plug all your computer attachments. Some devices, like modems or other networking boxes are drawing small amounts of power all the time. The best thing to do is turn them ALL off at the surge protector, after use.

In the Bathroom
* Wasting water wastes electricity. Why? Because the biggest use of electricity in most cities is for pumping and supplying water.

* About 75 percent of the water we use in our homes is used in the bathroom. If you have a high flush toilet, you use about 15 liters to 25 liters of water with every flush! A leaky toilet can waste more than 40000 liters of water a year.

* Another simple way to save water AND energy is to take shorter showers. You’ll use less hot water; water heaters account for nearly 1/4 of your home’s energy use and increases electricity bill.

In the Kitchen
* If you need to warm up or defrost small amounts of food, use a microwave instead of the stove to save energy. Microwave ovens use around 50 percent less energy than conventional ovens do. For large meals, however, the stove is usually more efficient. In the summer, using a microwave causes less heat in the kitchen, which saves money on air conditioning.

* Don’t keep the refrigerator door open any longer than you need to. Close it to keep the cold air inside! Also, make sure the door closes securely.

* Is there an old refrigerator sitting in someplace at home? Old refrigerators are real energy hogs! Replace it if you don’t need it.
One large refrigerator is cheaper to run than two smaller ones.

Think About What Your Family Buys
* If you buy things that can be used over and over instead of buying disposable items that are used once and then thrown away, you will save precious natural resources. You’ll also save energy used to make them, and you’ll reduce the amount of landfill space, we need when they are thrown away.

* Those same savings happen when you buy things that will last instead of breaking right away. Well-made items may cost a little more to begin with, but they are usually worth the money because they last for a long time, and you don’t have to replace them.

* When your family goes shopping, think about taking bags with you to reduce wastage of plastic carry bags.

* Pick a spot in your house to store bags that you get from the grocery store. These bags can be used to carry things to friends’ houses or for trash linings.

Other Recycling Tips
* Make a scrap-paper pad. Gather pieces of used paper with the blank side up. Find a piece of cardboard of the same size as the paper and put it at the back. Staple the whole thing together, and use it as a place to write down grocery lists or things to do.

* You can save a tree for every four feet of paper you recycle. It takes half as much energy to make recycled newspaper as it takes to make fresh newsprint from trees.

Source: http://www.energyefficienthomearticles.com

In your own household, the key to maintenance of electronic and water supply is in your hands. Water leaks and damages could cause you major financial and supply losses. In order to check water leaks on your house, you must know basic water repairs. Be aware of the causes of leaks. There are several reasons why water leaks occur:

1. Your Pipelines
Incorrectly made pipelines or insufficient support could lead to water leaks. Excess numbers of pipelines could also be a reason because the base may not be able to handle the pipe’s weight. Second, be concerned about the materials of your pipelines. When buying these materials, make sure to purchase the appropriate supplies without defects because failing to do so could lead your pipe to rust. Lastly, make sure not to use equipment that may harm your pipelines. Too much pressure caused by hammers could bring about water leaks. Depending on your geographic location, you may want to make special precautions for your pipes to ensure they can withstand very cold temperatures such that, during the winter months, water does not freeze within the pipes and expands, causing pipes to burst.

2. Learn How To Read Your Water Meter
Being able to use this could very well be the absoloute easiest way to detect leaks on your own. Read your water meter before and after a two-hour period when no water is being used. If the meter does not read exactly the same, there is a water leak! This could be something as simple as a leaky bathtub, or as horrendous as a leak inside a pipe deep within one of your walls, causing untold damage to your home.

3. Leak Detection Tips
In detecting water leaks, make sure that all of your appliances inside your house that make use of water are turned off. Then inspect the status of the meter dial and wait for 20 minutes. If the dials didn’t shift, you have a home with water pipes that are stable. But if the dials shift, check all of your appliances that makes of use water. If all are turned off, there might be a leak in your underground pipes. The reading on your meter should be greater than your bill from the time when you have used your water since the meter was read.

4. The Lawn Method
Another method to check water leaks is by opening lawn water. If you have a hose, or a water sprinkler, open it and start to watch the water meter’s movement for a minute. The whole rotation of the meter hand stands for 7.5 gallons of water. Add up the number of rotation the hand meter completes for each minute and multiple it by 7.5 to know how much gallons of water you consume every minute, every hour, every day and every week. If you know how much water you use up, you will know whether you are paying the correct bills or not. If your bills exceed the computation, you may be having water leakages.

5. Statistics
The average water used in each household is 60 to 200 gallons per person for a day. You will be surprised on how much water you consume every day. By being aware of these causes of water leaks and how to detect them, you will conserve water everyday.

- Remember that every drop of water counts
- Bathrooms take up almost 70% of water used
- Ensure all pipes and faucets are leak-free

6. Food Coloring Technique
Make it a routine to check toilet tanks. By adding a small amount of food color, you will be able to know if the toilet is leaking. Add food color to the tank. After 20 minutes or so, if the color appeared on the tank, it may be leaking. Try to replace the parts as soon as possible to prevent rust. Conserve water by being aware of water leaks. Learn to save water by checking your own pipes. It will benefit your financial needs. It will benefit your family’s safety. And it will benefit the people of the future who would be able to make use of the wonders of water.

Source: http://www.energyefficienthomearticles.com

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Heating and cooling bills are rising up in every part of the country and the trend will continue because of World energy demands. The average US household expense on energy bills is estimated at 6% of the income in 2005, compared to 4% in 2003. Owners of efficient new houses spend considerably less than the people living in old houses. Financial burden due to increased energy expenses can be reduced by weatherizing and conserving.

Your house can be energy deficient in plumbing, insulation or heating. In many old houses, the biggest problem is not the cold air coming from windows but the air filtration from the basement due to floor joists and the structures supporting the floor. In an average American home, 50%-70% of the energy used goes to heating and cooling. If your house is built before 1980, it may not have adequate insulation. While most owners focus on attic insulation, they should not ignore the basement ceiling. Fiber glass is not a good insulation material as air flows right through it. Use spray foam or cellulose as an insulation materials for proper insulation.

Caulk and weather-strip all doors and windows that leak air. Look for all plumbing, ducting and electrical wiring the penetrates through exterior walls and seal those to prevent hot air leaking out. Keep the flue damper tightly closed when the fire place is not in use. If you are planning to change windows in your house, shop for insulating windows and install them as tight fitting as possible. You can use heavy duty clear plastic sheet to the inside of your window and seal them properly to prevent any leak.

Another areas where home owners can focus to reduce their energy bill is conservation. If you have an old thermostat, replace it with a new electronics control thermostat with digital readouts.. An electronics control thermostat is more precise than an dial type thermostat. Better, yet, is a programmable thermostat that you can program for the different hours of the day and night. Replace air filters regularly. If your house has a hot water radiator, bleed it once or twice during the winter season. If you don’t know how to do this, search in the Internet or get the help of a professional.

When you buy new appliances, look for the “Energy Star label. Energy Star labeled appliances are certified to be energy efficient. Most appliances now display a bright yellow and black Energy Guide label. These labels will tell you the average energy consumption cost of the appliance. While shopping for any appliance, do not forget to take into account this cost as another factor to evaluate before you make your final decision.

Source: http://www.energyefficienthomearticles.com

Most of us are  fully aware about the global warming crisis and hopefully  we are  trying to make an effort in doing  our part to save energy. For those of you who are faithfully working toward conserving energy and working for a greener future, should be  commended. As for those of you who are still in the dark about the whole thing, let us lend you a hand and give you some simple ideas on how you can save energy and a lot of money on your housing bills.

……………………

One of the first and easiest things you can do to save some green is to change all the light bulbs in your home from incandescent to compact fluorescent. Did you know that if every man, woman, and child in America (which is about 302 million people) were to replace one incandescent light bulb with a fluorescent light bulb, that would be the equivalent to taking one million cars off the road for one whole year? Theoretically we would all be saving about $8 billion in electricity costs! You may be asking yourself, we’d all be saving that much if everyone changed just ONE incandescent bulb in their home? Imagine how much you would save on your electricity bills if you changed EVERY light bulb within your home!
……………………
Another way you can go green in your home is by turning off all your lights, electrical devices and appliances when not in use. Unplugging your refrigerator may not be the best of ideas, but there are energy saving alternatives for such major appliances. Turning off your lights and electrical devices like your television and radio will actually help you save some cash on your next electricity bill. If you think about it, saving a few dollars goes a long way, and it’s definitely beneficial to the environment.

With just these two simple do it yourself tips, going green goes a long way. Start off with these two ideas and check your electricity bill at the end of the month and you’d be surprised (and pleased) to see what a difference you’re making. As you keep adding greener choices to your lifestyle, everyone else around you will take notice and jump on the bandwagon. After all, you’re saving the earth by saving energy and money - it’s a win-win situation for everyone!

Sources: http://www.energyefficienthomearticles.com

Definition:
Absorption heat pump is essentially an air-source heat pumps driven not by electricity, but by a heat source such as solar-heated water, or geothermal-heated water. There are also absorption coolers available that work on the same principle, but are not reversible and cannot serve as a heat source.
.

Solar thermal
Active solar cooling wherein solar thermal collectors provide thermal energy to drive thermally-driven chillers (usually ADsorption or ABsorption chillers) .

The solar thermal energy system can be also used to produce hot water.

There are multiple alternatives to compressor-based chillers that can reduce energy consumption by 80%, with less noise and vibration. Solar thermal energy can be used to efficiently cool in the summer, and also heat domestic hot water, and the building in the winter. The Audubon Environmental Center in Los Angeles is one example among many).[2] Single, double or triple iterative absorption cooling cycles are used in different solar-thermal-cooling system designs. The more cycles, the more efficient they are.

In the late 1800s, the most common phase change refrigerant material for absorption cooling was a solution of ammonia and water. Today, the combination of lithium and bromide is also in common use. One end of the system of expansion / condensation pipes is heated, and the other end gets cold enough to make ice. Originally, natural gas was used as a heat source in the late 1800s. Today, propane is used in recreational vehicle absorption chiller refrigerators. Innovative hot water solar thermal energy collectors can also be used as the modern “free energy” heat source.

Efficient absorption chillers require water of at least 190 °F (88 °C). Common, inexpensive flat-plate solar thermal collectors only produce about 160 °F (71 °C) water, but several successful commercial projects in the US, Asia and Europe have shown that flat plate solar collectors specially developed for temperatures over 200 °F (featuring double glazing, increased backside insulation, etc.) can be effective and cost efficient. Evacuated-tube solar panels can be used as well. Concentrating solar collectors required for absorption chillers are less effective in hot humid, cloudy environments, especially where the overnight low temperature and relative humidity are uncomfortably high. Where water can be heated well above 190 °F (88+ °C), it can be stored and used when the sun is not shining.

For 150 years, absorption chillers have been used to make ice (before the electric light bulb was invented). This ice can be stored and used as an “ice battery” for cooling when the sun is not shining, as it was in the 1995 Hotel New Otani in Tokyo Japan. Mathematical models are available in the public domain for ice-based thermal energy storage performance calculations.

The ISAAC Solar Icemaker is an intermittent solar ammonia-water absorption cycle. The ISAAC uses a parabolic trough solar collector and a compact and efficient design to produce ice with no fuel or electric input, and with no moving parts.

Makers include ClimateWell, Fagor-Rotartica and Daikin.

Resources:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Absorption_heat_pump
http://www.heatpumpcentre.org/About_heat_pumps/HP_technology.asp

You can Grow  Great Vegetables, Herbs, Fruits & Berries in your Home Garden:-

Nothing tastes as good as home grown, fresh-picked fruits and vegetables. It doesn’t take a lot of skill or space to grow something delicious in the backyard. Here’s a collection of great tips and ideas to turn your home garden into a gourmet’s delight.

Click to learn how to grow successfully the following :-

*Vegetables
*Tomatoes, Totally
*Herbs & Edible Flowers
*Fruits & Berries
*Preserving the Harvest
*Organic Gardening

Sources:http://gardening.about.com/od/vegetablepatch/u/Vegetables.–M5.htm#s6

The flow of water in the world’s largest rivers including India’s Ganga, has declined over the past half-century, with significant  changes found in about a third of the big rivers.

An analysis of 925 major rivers from 1948 to 2004 showed an overall decline in total discharge. The reduction in inflow to the Pacific Ocean alone was about equal to shutting off the Mississippi
River, according to the new study appearing in the May 15 edition of the American Meteorological Society’s Journal of Climate.

Among the rivers showing declines in flow, several serve large populations. These include the Yellow River in northern China, the Ganga in India, the Niger in West Africa and the Colorado in the southwestern United States.

The annual flow into the Indian Ocean dropped by about 3%, or 140 cubic kilometers. In contrast, annual river discharge into the Arctic Ocean rose about 10%, or 460 cubic kilometers. There was little change in inflow to the Atlantic Ocean, where increases in the Mississippi and Parana rivers were balanced out by decreases in the Amazon River.

The only area showing a significant increase in flow was the Arctic, where warming conditions are increasing the snow and ice melt, said researchers led by Aiguo Dai of the National Center for Atmospheric Research in Boulder, Colorado.

The study showed that the Colorado, a lifeline of the southwest United States, won’t be able to provide all of water promised to millions who rely on it for their homes, farms and businesses.

Climate researchers at the Scripps Institution of Oceanography studied the effects of climate change on the 14-hundred mile river system that provides water for about 27 million people.

They found that if things stay the same, by 2050 the river won’t be able to provide all of the water needed 60% to 90% of the time.

Sources: The Times Of India

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It is always important to test the air quality inside your house and office rooms where you and your dear and near ones spend most of your life times. On test if you find that the quality of air is not within permissible  limits, you can always improve it by installing different modern  air purifying equipments  and save you and your family from thousands of ailments.

Test Kit Contents : Kit includes: 1 dry surface sampler- 1 sterile sponge, sponge rinse container, buffered rinse solution (50ml), 1 sterile glove; and 1 Micro Inspector Total Microbe test.

Homes and Offices Can Breed “Bad Air”

Most people spend 90% of their time indoors. Indoor air quality plays a greater role in the health of people who spend most of their time indoors: the very young, the elderly and those who are chronically ill. Air inside homes, offices, schools and other buildings can be more polluted than outdoor air because heating, cooling and ventilation systems are common sources of bacterial growth.

A Simple Do-It-Yourself Test To Determine Your Indoor Air Quality

You can easily and inexpensively screen for potentially harmful bacteria and fungus inside your home or office by combining a sterile dry surface sampler with our patented Micro Inspector Total Microbe test.

Two  Ways to Sample and Test for Bacterial Contamination in Your Air

1. Sample Air Filter……..>
Air filters are designed to catch particles floating in the air. If not changed regularly, they become a breeding ground for bacteria by providing an ideal environment of warmth and moisture. Even when changed regularly, bacteria may form quickly and spread thoughout your home or office. To obtain a sample from your air filter, remove it from the circulation source (air conditioner, etc.) and use the dry surface sampler provided: pour rinse solution onto sponge, wipe sample “zone” on filter, place sponge back into it’s container, pour remaing solution into container, shake and pour contents into sample cup. Run Total Microbe test. Compare results to chart.

2. Sample Air Duct…….>
Air ducts can become a breeding ground for bacteria and mold. To obtain a sample from your air duct and use the dry surface sampler provided: pour rinse solution onto sponge, wipe sample “zone” inside air duct or on duct vent, place sponge back into it’s container, pour remaing solution into container, shake and pour contents into sample cup. Run Total Microbe test. Compare results to chart.

Sources: http://www.simpltek.com/site/products/indoorair.html

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Californians could soon be powering their homes, and no doubt their hot tubs, from a space-based solar electricity programme.

The plan by the state’s massive energy company PG&E calls for the generation of 200 megawatts over 15 years to be collected by space-based solar arrays and beamed down to earth via radio frequency.

PG&E hopes to have the system running by 2016 and is seeking permission from regulators to contract with a company called Solaren to put the system in place.

Experts say that harnessing solar power in space has advantages over terrestrial systems since solar energy can be harvested around the clock and is never obscured by clouds or bad weather.

Solaren’s solar-power satellite would consist of mirror arrays up to several kilometres wide, which would focus sunlight onto photoelectric cells.

The electrical power would be converted into a microwave beam directed towards Earth, where it would be converted back into electricity.

According to the company, the system could generate roughly 1.2 to 4.8 gigawatts of power, at a price comparable to that of other renewable energy sources.

“While a system of this scale and exact configuration has not been built, the underlying technology is very mature and is based on communications satellite technology,” Solaren CEO Gary Spirnak said in announcing the move.

“For over 45 years, satellites have collected solar energy in earth orbit via solar cells, and converted it to radio frequency energy for transmissions to Earth receive stations,” he said.

Sources:The Times Of India

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Spam is not just an irritant to receivers, it is also a threat to the environment with a huge carbon footprint, say researchers.

A study into spam has blamed it for the production of more than 33bn kilowatt-hours of energy every year, enough to power more than 2.4m homes.

The ‘Carbon Footprint of email Spam Report’ estimated that 62 trillion spam emails are sent globally every year, the BBC News portal reported on Thursday.

This amounted to emissions of more than 17 million tons of carbon dioxide (CO²), the research by climate consultants ICF International and anti-virus firm McAfee found. Searching for legitimate emails and deleting spam used some 80% of energy.

The study found that the average business user generates 131kg of CO² every year, of which 22% is related to spam.

ICF say that spam filtering would reduce unwanted spam by 75%, the equivalent to taking 2.3 million cars off the road. However, the ICF goes on to say that while spam filtering is effective in reducing energy waste, fighting it at the source is far better.

The report highlights the case of McColo , a US web hosting firm that had ties to spammers. The day after it was taken offline by its two internet service providers, global spam volume fell by 70%.

Although the respite was only temporary, McAfee said the “day without spam amounted to taking 2.2 million cars off the road” and that tackling spam should be part of the campaign to reduce carbon emissions.

The Spam Report follows only a few days after Symantec’s bi-annual Internet Security Threat report, which found that spam had increased by 192%, with bot networks responsible for approximately 90% of all spam email.

You may click to see:->Spam’s Noxious Carbon Footprint

Sources: The Times Of India

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Definition: Compost is the end product of the decomposition of organic matter. Organic matter includes: garden waste, kitchen scraps, manure, leaves, grass clippings, straw… There are many methods of composting, but all organic matter will eventually decompose, with or without our help.

Compost is not particularly high in essential nutrients, (N-P-K), and is considered a soil conditioner rather than a fertilizer. However, organic matter is a valuable soil amendment because it: can improved soil structure, aids in necessary microbial activity in the soil, attracts beneficial insects such as earthworms, can suppress several soil born diseases and holds its nutrients in organic or slow release form, allowing for availability throughout the growing season. While there are many methods of composting and many composting bin styles, there is no best method. As the bumper sticker says, “Compost Happens”. The important thing to remember is that you can never add too much compost to your soil.

You can till compost directly into the soil or add some as a side dressing to established plants.
Also Known As: Humus Organic Matter
Examples: While all organic matter will eventually decompose, composting speeds the process.

Click to see:->
*Turn a Garbage Can Into a Homemade Compost Bin

*Garden Soil - The Importance of Organic Matter

*Soil-less Potting Mix Recipes - Make Your Own Potting Mix

*Garden Soil - Understanding Soil pH

*Home Composting - Different Types of Home Composting Systems

*Saving and Storing Kitchen Scraps for Composting

*Make Your Own Compost - How To Make Your Own Compost

*The Complete Compost Gardening Guide by Barbara Pleasant & Deborah …

*Compost - Start Your Own Compost
.

Sources:http://gardening.about.com/lr/composting/357678/1/

Gardening indoors can include houseplants and plants that are just indoors for the winter. The heat, sunlight and humidity indoors calls for special care of your tropical houseplants and overwintering tender garden plants.

…..

CLICK TO SEE:->
*Houseplants - Which to Grow
*Problems with Houseplants
*Outdoor Plants, Indoors
*Tips for Better Houseplants

Houseplants You Can’t Kill
Easy care houseplants. Houseplants for people who don’t take care of their plants. These 6 indoors plants are extremely hard to kill with neglect, yet they’ll add that homey feel that only plants can bring.

Flowering Houseplants
Houseplants bring life into a room. As ornamental as houseplants are, many also provide health benefits by purifying the air and increasing humidity. Flowering houseplants add another layer of enjoyment, bringing color and maybe even scent into your decor. And you’d be surprised how some can survive on the most minimal attention. Try your hand at growing flowering houseplants or brigh…

Houseplant Gallery
Many people shy away from houseplants because even the most hardy houseplant will eventually require some care. But you would be surprised at how a handful of plants can survive on the most minimal attention. If you’d like to try your hand at growing plants indoors or you’re looking to brighten someone else’s abode, here’s a selection of houseplants that will thrive with minimal care and in var…

Lighting - Determining Lighting for Houseplants
Determining how much light an indoor plant needs is about as vague as determining how much water it needs. However, most houseplants don’t like to be placed in the direct sun of a windowsill. Strong sunlight may actually burn their leaves.

Watering House Plants - Too Much of a Good Thing?
How, when and how much to water your indoor plants.

Humidity - Controlling Humidity for Indoor Plants
Lack of humidity is a culprit in may indoor plant deaths, especially during the winter. You may first notice a low humidity problem as browning leaf tips on your houseplants. As a plant dehydrates, it can start to look withered, puckered or simply drop its leaves.

Salt Build-up on Houseplant Containers
How to correct or avoid salt build-up from improper watering of houseplants.

Feng Shui Houseplants
Create good chi with the help of these indoor plants.

Feng Shui Top 10 Air-Purifying Plants
Feng Shui, the ancient art and science of balancing energy for better well being, puts great emphasis on the quality of the air we breath, particularly indoors where we can control many factors. Rodika Tchi, About’s Guide to Feng Shui, was asked if there was a feng shui solution to poor indoor air quality. Well of course there is.

Poisonous Houseplants?
Here’s a list of potentially dangerous houseplants if you have hungry pets or curious small children.

Sources:http://gardening.about.com/od/houseplants/Houseplants_Gardening_Indoors.htm

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A team of Indian technologists are working on developing hybrid solar solutions that is expected to bring down electricity costs  significantly and help supply power without transmission lines.
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Around 50 students drawn from various Indian Institutes of Technology have already had four-five brainstorming sessions in this regard, said secretary in the Department of Science and Technology, T Ramasami.

In the present-day system, to generate one megawatt of power, one needs Rs 20 crore investment and even then the cost of delivered power is high.

“So, instead of looking at bringing it down in a short-term, we are looking at hybrid where you don’t have to store electricity”, Ramasami said.

“There are several places in the country which do not have transmission lines. So, (with these solar hybrid solutions) you don’t have to synchronise power to power electronics and mount on it”, he said, adding, the off-grid and mini-grid solutions would be helpful in areas without transmission lines.

Ramasami said the aim is to bring down the electricity cost to Rs nine per kilo watt hour (from the current level of Rs 20). “Rs nine is what it will cost for diesel power. So, they (the team members) are working on bringing it to that level”.

Supported by the private sector industy and some other institutions, the hybrid solutions being developed are expected to be viable, he said, adding, the project is slated to be completed by May.

Sources: The Times Of India

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Whether you set your house plants out last spring, for a summer vacation, or you got carried away with container gardening until pots competed with the cat for every sunny nook of patio space, the cool night temperatures mean it’s time to think about bringing tender plants back indoors. Chances are you have even less sunny nooks inside, so you will have to decide what’s worth keeping and how to care for them.

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How Do You Decide Which Tender Plants To Keep?
1.Keep only healthy plants. If something has been struggling all summer under the best of conditions, it is not going to improve indoors.

2,Never bring in a plant with pests or disease. Don’t convince yourself that you’ll quarantine the plant until it’s been treated. Problems spread more quickly among indoor plants than in the garden.

3.Give dibs to your favorite plants, the ones you’ve been coddling for years, like a bay tree, anything you’ve trained into a standard and sentimental favorites.

4.If the plant would look good as a house plant, bring it in and use it as one. Many people have the light to successfully winter geraniums and begonias in full bloom.

5.Some tender perennials like a period of dormancy in winter. You can winter over potted lavender and rosemary in your garage. If the temperature doesn’t go below 20 degrees F. or above 40 degrees F. they won’t freeze, but will stay dormant. Just don’t let the pots dry out.

6.If you have the room, consider bringing in some small pepper or tomato plants. These are actually tropical perennials and given enough light, will continue to produce fruits all winter. Tomatoes need a large pot. You’ll have more success growing a compact, patio variety. Cherry tomatoes and small-fruited peppers like chilies or cherry varieties will fruit easiest and give you a higher yield.

7..Be realistic about space and available light. You can always start cuttings. Cuttings take up much less space.

Give your outdoor plants time to acclimate to being house plants. Bring them indoors while the windows are still open. They’ll adjust to the change in temperature and humidity more easily if the change is gradual, rather than waiting until a frost is expected and then bringing the plants into a dry, heated home.

Sources:http://gardening.about.com/od/houseplants/a/BringIndoors.htm

Making your own house land scaping  is a great mental satisfaction. So it is encouraged  to do-it-yourself . To learn the basic concepts and techniques employed by professional designers you may click and look the  following: -

1.Using Color Schemes
2.Plant Form and Texture
3.Focal Points, Scale and Line

Not only will these concepts serve as building blocks for improving the look of your own yard, but studying them will also generate numerous landscape design ideas for you. By browsing the photos  in the resources below will provide access to landscape design ideas that you can apply immediately; but, in addition to that, digesting the explanations that accompany the photos will open up a whole new window for you into the world of designing.

Landscape Design Ideas:-> Landscape  Color Schemes

You may browse these photos showing landscape color schemes in action! See examples illustrating such concepts as:

* Contrast in color
* “Warm” colors
* “Cool” colors

Click to view the Related resources:->

*Color Theory
*Flower Pictures Organized by Color
*Pictures of Flowering Shrubs

Landscape Design Ideas:-
You may wonder what seemingly abstract terms like “form” and “texture” have to do with improving the look of your yard. You may object that you’re not painting a masterpiece, after all; you’re just putting plants in the ground. Yet it is not coincidental that our subject shares some terminology with the world of art. The backyard is your canvas; your understanding of concepts such as form and texture will determine the beauty of the resulting picture.

Flowers may be sufficient to achieve the color schemes you desire, but when it comes to form and texture, you’ll find the need for other allies, such as ornamental grasses, as well as trees and shrubs with interesting branching patterns and foliage.

View photos: Plant Form and Texture

You may click to view related resources: ->
*Ornamental Grass
*Foliage Plants

Landscape Design Ideas:
Designers create focal points to direct the eye to key areas in the yard. Scale and line are other concepts that deal with eye movement; we see examples of “line” at work all the time, in the form of hedges and fences. Learn about these tried-and-true landscape design ideas, concepts that serve as the cornerstones of the world’s picture-perfect gardens.

You may click and view the photos:-> Focal Points, Scale and Line

You may click and view the  Related resources:
*Fence Pictures
*Hedges

Sources: http://landscaping.about.com/od/landscapedesignideas/a/landscape_photo.htm

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What makes a plant popular for winter landscapes in the snowy regions of the globe? Are conifers the sole contestants? Which landscaping plants are automatically disqualified? Which shrubs are best for attracting wild birds? Answering such questions should help generate landscaping ideas for dealing with that Scrooge of the seasonal landscapes, horticulturally speaking — the winter landscape. Our goal is to turn a drab winter landscape into a winter scene worth painting!

While evergreen shrubs and conifer trees undeniably add visual interest to winter landscapes, so do many other plants, such as red osier dogwoods. About the only plants that are disqualified right at the outset are those that lack any appreciable height: no matter how pretty a plant may be, it will add no visual interest to the winter landscape if it lies buried all winter, dwarfed by a blanket of snow. Based on this premise, let’s explore ideas to enhance the winter landscape. And let’s keep in mind all the while the fact that many landscaping enthusiasts are also bird watchers; so that a plant’s ability to attract wild birds will be a consideration.

A winning plant for winter landscapes will have one or more of the following characteristics:

*Contains colorful berries that attract birds for bird watching
*Readily catches snow in its branches
*Exhibits a delicate structure
*Is clad in a bark that is colorful or that has an unusual texture
*Bears evergreen foliage
*Has an interesting branching pattern

Let’s look at some popular plants exhibiting these characteristics. I’ll let conifers take a back seat; their value to winter landscapes goes without saying, so I’m limiting their representation to two entries here. The following is a list of 10 popular plants for adding visual interest in winter:

*Christmas holly shrubs
*red twig dogwood or red osier dogwood
*plume grass
*bayberry
*cranberrybush viburnum
*winterberry holly
*birch trees
*yew shrubs
*Canadian hemlocks
*Viking black chokeberry

Evergreen holly is popular due to its striking, year-round foliage and bright berries that attract many bird species. Sprigs of cut holly have long been used in winter holiday decorations. Many evergreen hollies are not hardy enough for far Northern climes, but two of the hardier varieties are:

*China holly (Ilex meserveae), a rounded holly, 8′ high by 8′ wide, that is also drought tolerant, and

*compact inkberry holly (Ilex glabra ‘Compacta’), which has a dark green foliage that resembles that of boxwood shrubs. Its berry is black, not the usual red that we associate with hollies. It reaches a height of 3′-6′, and spreads out 3′-5′.

Red osier dogwood (Cornus sericea ‘Allemans’) is another extremely hardy plant (zones 3-8). The May flowering of red osier dogwoods yields white blooms that are followed by white fruit. But red osier dogwood makes this list because of its bark, which ranges in color from red to burgundy. Reaching a height of 6′-10′, the spread of red osier dogwoods is 5′-10′. A patch of fiery red osier dogwood against a backdrop of pristine snow makes for an unforgettable winter scene.

No winter landscape should be without a tall perennial grass. These ornamental grasses, with their tall, thin shafts and fluffy coiffures, exhibit a delicate structure that lends a touch of charm to the harsh winter landscape. Plume grass (Erianthus ravennae) can be grown in zones 4-9. It grows 8′-11′ (its clump has a spread of 3′-4′).

Bayberry (Myrica pensylvanica) is a shrub with a spreading habit (4′-6′ X 4′-6′), grown in zones 2-8 (see photo at right). Its glossy, aromatic foliage complements its waxy, gray fruit. In fact, these unusual berries are widely used to scent candles — if you can get to the berries before the birds do, that is. The shrub is also drought tolerant. The birds may like bayberry, but the deer don’t, as it’s one of the deer-resistant plants.

Compact American cranberrybush viburnum (Viburnum trilobum ‘Compactum’) yields masses of red berries that serve as a source of food for birds on the winter landscape. A rounded shrub, it bears white flowers in May and June that are followed by red fruit. As a bonus, the shrub offers foliage ranging from red to purple in fall. American cranberrybush viburnum is hardy to zone 2. It grows 4′-5′ high, with a spread of 3′-4′.

Winterberry holly (Ilex verticillata) is a deciduous holly shrub native to wetland areas of the eastern half of Canada and the U.S. As stated on Page 1, usefulness for attracting wild birds in winter is one of the criteria considered for this list, and the fruit of winterberry (see photo at right) will certainly attract birds to your property. Far from being a drawback, its deciduous nature is actually a benefit for the winter landscape. For winterberry holly’s exciting display of red berries is enhanced as this holly shrub sheds its leaves. All the attention is drawn to the plant’s fruit, with no foliage to obstruct one’s view.

A dioecious shrub (as are bayberry and evergreen holly), to ensure fruit production it is best to plant several shrubs together, to increase your chances of finding a male plant to accompany the females. For a full-length feature on this shrub, please consult Brighten the Winter Landscape With Winterberry Holly.

Three varieties of birch trees lend considerable interest to the winter landscape, two of them (the second and third entries below) because of their bark:

1.Young’s weeping birch (Betula pendula ‘Youngii’) is a 6′-12′ dwarf variety that I mention largely because it provides a good example of one of the “winning” characteristics for winter landscapes that I mentioned earlier. Namely, Young’s weeping birch has an interesting branching pattern: it droops (as its name suggests).

2.Paper birch (Betula papyrifera) is the well-known beauty native to most of Canada and some of the northern states of the U.S. The tree looks like it’s “shedding” its bark, which peels from the trunk in strips as white as untrodden snow.
Yellow birch (Betula alleghaniensis) is a shiny golden version of paper birch.

Yews are a part of the tradition of Christmas decorating in Britain and elsewhere in Europe. Sprigs have long been cut from yews to be used like Christmas holly. These conifers bear evergreen needles and bright red berries. But keep children away from both the foliage and the berries of these poisonous plants; the seeds and needles are quite toxic! Please consult my full-length article for more information on yew shrubs.

Canadian hemlocks (Tsuga canadenesis) are best known as forest trees that reach enormous heights (60′ or more). But if you select a shrub-form cultivar, Canadian hemlocks can be maintained at the height you desire. A properly pruned row of Canadian hemlock shrubs can form a dense and attractive hedge. Or let their feathery foliage grow naturally and use them as specimens. Either way, these evergreen conifers will help give your winter landscape some much-needed visual interest.

Like winterberry holly Viking black chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa ‘Viking’) tolerates poorly-drained soils. Like American cranberrybush viburnum (see Page 1) and barberry (see Page 3) this shrub provides foliage that ranges from red to purple in fall, making it a two-season standout. Viking black chokeberry is hardy to zone 3. As with all the berries mentioned in this article, chokeberry berries serve as an emergency food for wild birds. They’re not the birds’ first choice (they are astringent or otherwise unpalatable which is why they stick around so long!). But when the birds get desperate, these plants are their salvation. Its white flowers in May yield to purplish black berry clusters. It grows to a height of 3′-5′, with a spread of 3′-5′.

The final two shrubs didn’t make my Top 10 list. I mention them simply because they used to be popular for providing winter scenes in the yard: Japanese barberry shrubs and winged euonymous shrubs. Both, however, are invasive plants, so seek alternative components for your winter scenes where possible.

Japanese barberry (Berberis thunbergii) is a rounded shrub with thorns, hardy to zone 3. It ranges between 4′ and 6′ both in height and spread. Its leaves put on a color show in autumn, changing to orange, then to reddish purple. Small yellow flowers in spring are succeeded by oval, red berries. The berries persist well into the cold months, thus serving not only as components for winter scenes, but also as a source of food for wild birds.

Winged euonymus (Euonymus alatus), also called “burning bush” (height 10′-15′, spread 10′-15′), is grown in zones 4-8. For the purposes of winter scenes, the common name, “winged euonymous” is apropos. Indeed, the Latin, alatus, does translate to “winged.” But in addition, it is the “wing” or corky flap of bark protruding from its stems that is responsible for this plant’s popularity for winter scenes. Because of this corky protrusion, winged euonymus catches and holds snow more readily than most plants (see photo, above right), affording glimpses of sparkling winter scenes.

The designation, “burning bush” for this invasive shrub is more appropriate in autumn, when the bush’s dazzling red foliage does virtually set the landscape “on fire.” For information on other shrubs popular for fall landscaping, please consult Shrubs and Vines for Fall Color.

Sources:http://landscaping.about.com/cs/winterlandscaping1/a/winter_shrubs.htm

In pruning apple trees to try to give them an optimal shape and structure, you’re essentially focusing on the leader and on establishing good scaffold branches. A prime objective in pruning apple trees is to ensure good aeration. I.e., if air circulates freely through all the branches, there’s less chance of a problem with powdery mildew disease. Pruning also restricts the vertical growth of the apple trees, making it easy for you to get at them in your attempts to provide adequate apple tree care.

In addition to pruning, the branches are trained — in a process called, “spreading”  to form angles that will help them radiate out from the trunk, while maintaining sufficient strength to bear heavy loads. And speaking of loads, believe it or not, there can be such a thing as thing as “too many apples.” While you’re waiting for your young tree to produce any fruit at all, this can seem like an enviable problem to have. But a problem it is, and it’s dealt with through a process known as “thinning.”

Thinning promotes larger fruit size, improves next year’s blooming and reduces the likelihood of limbs snapping off. Thinning works on two levels: the blossom level and the branch level. Apple blossoms form a cluster, consisting of five or six potential fruits. You’ll want to thin these down to one fruit, once the baby apples have reached about the size of a marble. At the branch level, remove enough fruit so that the remaining apples are spaced about 4″-6″ apart.

Even if you have disease-resistant varieties, you still have to worry about insect pests. To combat scales, mites and aphids, spray a horticultural oil on apple trees just after full bloom is over, and thereafter spray every 10-14 days throughout the summer. For apple maggots, codling moths, green fruitworms and plum curculios, check with your local county extension office for the best pesticide to apply in your area. Some apple tree growers are experimenting with neem oil as an organic alternative for curculio control.

Voles or “meadow mice” are the next greatest menace to apple trees, after disease and insects.Tou may click on vole control for tips on how to identify and control these pesky nibblers.

Sources:http://landscaping.about.com/cs/fruittreesbushes/a/apple_trees_4.htm

The best spot for planting apple trees is an area with rich, well-drained soil and plenty of sun. Planting apple trees where they’ll get early morning sun helps reduce incidence of powdery mildew disease, as does locating them in a spot with good air circulation. Early spring is a fine time for planting apple trees in the North. In the South, fall is perhaps the best time for planting apple trees: the roots will already have been established when next spring rolls around, giving your home apple trees a head-start.
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In preparation, remove weeds and grass to form a bare circle for each transplant, about 4′ in diameter. Your initial challenge in home apple tree care after bringing the apple trees home from the nursery will be keeping their roots moist — both before and after putting them in the ground. Soaking their roots in water for 30 minutes before planting apple trees is a good first step. If the roots look dried out, extend that soaking period to about 24 hours in order to revive them.

When you make the trip to your local nursery to buy the plants, look for bare-root stock, one year old. Although it may seem that you’d be getting a good deal (because the plants are bigger), avoid planting apple trees that are more than three years old. Younger trees are easier to get established.

Planting
Begin digging a hole approximately twice the diameter of the root system, and about a foot deeper. When you think you have the depth of the hole approximately right, spread out the roots in the hole and check the level of the “bud union.” The goal will be to have the bud union raised about 2″ above ground level. The bud union is where the scion meets the rootstock as a result of grafting.

You don’t want the bud union at too low a level — for two reasons. First of all, that would invite crown rot. Secondly, you don’t want the scion taking root and overriding the contribution of the rootstock.

Apply water as you fill the hole back in with soil, to remove air pockets. Add soil amendments at the same time. This is also the time to install a vole  guard around the trunk of your home apple trees, letting it protrude about 10″ above ground level. Water well again after the transplant is complete. To help retain some of that moisture (and also keep the weeds and grass from growing back), mulch around the plant to a depth of 2″-3″.

Sources:http://landscaping.about.com/cs/fruittreesbushes/a/apple_trees_3.htm

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