STEP-1:.
An old deck with a sound structure doesn’t have to be torn down. You can remove the worn out decking and railing, and then replace it with new, low-maintenance decking and railing – a brand-new deck for a lot less money.

If your existing deck is old, shabby and a maintenance nightmare, you don’t have to tear it all down and start over. Chances are that the structural parts are still in good shape. If so, you can simply remodel it with new decking, rails and stairs, and save tons of money over the cost of a complete rebuild.

In this story, we’ll show you how to replace worn decking, railings, stairs and several other features. We won’t tear out the basic deck framing—instead we’ll describe how to tell if your deck is in good structural shape. We’ll show you how to replace old decking with low-maintenance composite materials and build a new “floating” landing at yard level that expands the deck in an attractive, practical way.

We’ll show you how to make a new set of safer and stronger enclosed stairs and build handsome handrails from cedar and prefinished aluminum spindles. We added a simple privacy screen to shield activities from nosy neighbors and a below-deck skirting system to mask the unsightly posts and ugly area below. We used rough-sawn cedar for all of the exposed wood parts because its rough-hewn surface will hold stain for years.

If you’ve built a deck before, you know that even without the structural work, it’s still a big project that can take several weekends to accomplish. The nice thing about deck work is that you can pick away at it over time without disrupting the house. Just make sure you keep the door that opens onto the deck locked or barred until you’re finished! You’ll need all of the standard carpentry tools, including a 4-ft. level, circular saw, screw gun and carpenter’s square, and tools for the demo work, including a sledgehammer and pry bars. And a power miter saw is almost mandatory for clean, accurate cuts on railing parts.

STEP-2: Is your deck a remodeling candidate?
The No. 1 thing to check before deciding to reuse the deck framework is whether the deck footings, posts and joists are structurally sound. Here are the main things you should examine when making the decision.

A. Sound footings. Start from the ground up by examining the footings. You’ve probably noticed if your deck footings have “heaved” above grade because the deck will appear warped (sometimes only during the winter). That’s a sign of too-shallow footings. If so, replace them with deeper ones. Usually you can dig and pour new ones directly next to the old ones rather than ripping out the old footings, which is a brutal job.

B. Wood condition. Examine your posts and other framing members to see if they’re made of treated lumber or not. Treated wood, the material used to frame most decks, will last for decades. Treated lumber should have a familiar green hue. Look for markings that say “.40 treated” or a CCA label that indicates that the wood has been preserved. If the wood is badly stained and you can’t find any stamps, it may come to cutting a thin sliver off the end of some framing with a circular saw and looking at the fresh end, which should have the green tint of preservative around the edges of the cut. If your deck is framed with cedar or redwood, it’s best to start over and reframe it with treated wood. Neither wood will last nearly as long as your low-maintenance deck improvements. Whether your deck framing is treated or not, if a screwdriver penetrates into punky, soft wood anywhere, indicating rot, it’s best to start your deck from scratch.

C. Structural integrity. Make a drawing of your deck and list the spans and sizes of the joists and beams. Bring it to the building department at your city hall. An inspector will let you know if the framing sizes and spans are adequate. Don’t rely on your own structural analysis. Apply for a deck building permit, and before starting your project, ask the inspector for an on-site opinion to confirm the structural integrity of your deck.

D. Details. There should be at least one 3/8-in. lag screw or bolt into the ledger between each pair of joists for a solid connection, but your building inspector may call for even more depending on the size of the deck they support.

Look for joist hangers on each joist with all of the nail holes filled with galvanized joist hanger nails—not roofing nails. Add joist hangers if they’re missing. They’re not necessary on the ends of joists that rest on a beam, even if they project over the edge.

Look for flashing over the ledger that attaches to the house. It should extend behind the siding and across the top of the deck ledger (Photo 3). There should also be flashing behind the deck ledger at the bottom and over the siding; add it if it’s missing.

Low-Upkeep Deck Materials
This deck features two interesting building systems. The Correctdeck low-maintenance decking uses a completely hidden fastener system. And we’ve teamed up prefinished aluminum spindles with a “Uniball” anchoring system for a rail system that’s foolproof to install and maintenance free as well.

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STEP-3. Out with the old

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Remove the rails and begin prying up the nailed decking boards. Start from the outside and move toward the house so you have a solid, safe platform to work from.

Mark the height of a stair tread on a nearby post or stake for later reference. Then remove the stringers and save the best one for a pattern.

Mark the height of a stair tread on a nearby post or stake for later reference. Then remove the stringers and save the best one for a pattern.

Tearing out the old rails and decking comes first. You can knock off most of the railing with a sledge. But make sure to remove any screws or bolts driven into structural members first because you don’t want to tear up anything you want to reuse. In most cases, it won’t take long for the tear-off. In fact it only took two of us two hours to get this deck down to bare bones.

Have a Dumpster delivered ahead of time so you can throw in the debris right away and keep nail-infested boards out of the yard. A “10-yard” unit will be enough for all but the biggest decks, provided you pack the boards closely and cut up the longer ones. A sledgehammer,a crowbar and a flat bar are the tools of choice.

Start by removing the spindles. If they’re nailed, just hitting each near the deck and the top rail with a light swing of the sledgehammer will knock them free. If they’re screwed on, back out as many as you can and then go back with the sledgehammer to knock off pickets with stripped screwheads. Believe me, they’ll either come free of the wood or the pickets will break around them. If you have 4×4 intermediate posts fastened to the outside of the deck rim, attack them next. Generally that’s just a case of loosening the bolts or removing lag screws.

If decking surrounds the posts, you’ll have to remove the decking first. Clean up any leftover nails by pulling them rather than driving them in where they’ll cause trouble later.

Don’t waste time removing nails from wood that you’ll toss. Just bend them flat so you don’t step on them or get cut during handling. It’s usually not worth the effort to try to back out any leftover screws because by this time, they’ll be too bent to unscrew. Just pull them out with a large crowbar, or if that’s impossible, bend them back and forth a couple of times and they’ll snap off even with the surface.

Tackle the deck boards next. Work from the outside of the deck toward the house so you’ll have an easy way off. If your deck’s nailed down, it’s usually pretty easy to pry up each board with a combination of a flat bar and crowbar, working from one end toward the other.

You may have all kinds of nails left in the joists. Pull them out as you pry up the boards unless you can reach them from the ground later. If your deck is screwed down, the job will take more effort. Screws can be especially hard to back out if heads are stripped or corroded, so be sure you have a drive tip that’s in good shape and matches the screwheads. If some are impossible to back out, try drilling through the head, then pry the board over the shank and break off the screws.

Before you tear off the stairs, drive a stake nearby or suspend a board from the deck and mark the bottom few tread heights (Photo 2). Save the stair stringer (the notched 2×12 that forms the stairs) that’s in the best shape to use as a pattern later for laying out a new set of stringers. The 2x12s are fragile, so use special care when prying up the treads.

STEP-4..Get started with the rail posts

Fasten the new posts:-Cut the 10-ft. 4×4 posts in half, then plumb and clamp them in place. Drill a 1-in. countersink hole 1/2 in. deep, then drill a 3/8-in. diameter hole through the deck rim and post. Install and tighten galvanized hex head bolts and nuts.

Add extra blockibg: Bolster the taller privacy screen 4×4 posts by adding blocks on both sides of each post. Add one more block between the second and the third rows of joists directly behind the double blocks.

Mark your post positions, spacing them evenly on each edge of the deck. Shifting them an inch or two in either direction won’t be noticeable, but keep the post spacing under 6 ft. to prevent sagging. Cut 10-ft. long 4x4s in half (it’s easiest to cut them to their final length after the decking is installed).

Plumb each post, holding them in place with clamps, and then drill 1-in. countersink holes with either a Forstner or a spade bit about 1/2 in. deep to inset the bolt heads. Later you’ll cover them behind fascia boards. Drill 3/8-in. holes through the whole works with a 12-in. long bit (Photo 4) and install and tighten the nuts and bolts. Choose bolts that are 1 in. longer than the thickness of all the wood you’re securing.

Check for plumb again; you may have to loosen the bolts and add shims to accomplish this. If so, use shims ripped from treated wood. Be accurate—you won’t get another chance to plumb the posts once the decking is on. Nail blocking on both sides of the tall privacy screen posts and another block into the next joist to make the posts more rigid (Photo 5 and Figure C).

Add the 1×10 cedar fascia flush with the top of the joists. Set your saw to 45 degrees and miter the outside corners for a clean, handsome look. To protect the cedar and keep it more stable, it’s best to stain all four sides and any freshly cut ends with two coats of latex stain.

Choosing Composite Decking:
Composite decking is chosen  because of the color selection and the nifty hidden fastener system that hides all the screws between the deck boards (Photo 8). It was easy to install and came in lengths long enough to span the whole deck—no butt joints.

However, when you select a composite decking, you’ll often have to buy additional edgings, nosings or elaborate fastening systems that may drive up the cost. It’s best to study printed information first to know what you’re getting into. Also ask your building inspector whether the synthetic decking you’ve chosen is code compliant for your deck.  If your joists are spaced more than 16-in. on center, you may need to add more joists or use wood decking.

STEP- 5: Install the new decking

Photo 6: Notch the decking around the posts
Mark the notches in the first row of decking with a square, allowing for a 1-in. overhang past the cedar trim board.

Photo 7: Attach the hidden fasteners
Slip the hidden fasteners into the decking groove and screw them to the center of each joist.

Photo 8: Lock the next board into the hidden fastener
Tap the decking into the fasteners with a maul, protecting the decking edges with a chunk of scrap 2×4.

Photo 9: Trim the ends
Snap a line on the ends 1 in. beyond the cedar trim and cut off the ends with a circular saw.

Start installing the decking at the edge of the deck opposite the house. You’ll have to notch the first couple of deck boards around the posts (Photo 6). To get a perfectly straight start, snap a guideline to mark the edge of the first deck board, allowing for a 1-in. overhang.

Screw (or nail) down the first board and lay the others, working your way toward the house and leaving the ends hanging over both ends of the deck for later trimming (Photo 7). As you can see, we used decking with hidden fasteners.

As you progress, check the spacing between the house and the deck boards to make sure they stay parallel with the house. Correct variations a little at a time over several rows to avoid large, tapered gaps. When you reach the deck board nearest the house, cut it to width and length (with 1-in. overhangs at each end) before fastening it down. The house wall will prevent you from completely cutting it with a circular saw once it’s in place. Then snap lines on the decking 1 in. beyond the fascia and trim the ends (Photo 9).

Figure A: Landing Framing
The landing rests on floating footings made from 6x6s on gravel beds.

STEP-6 : Frame the landing and mark the footings

Photo 10: Position the landing
Square, position and level the frame of the landing. Outline the 6×6 footing positions (Figure A). Dig trenches 8 in. deep x 12 in. wide.

Photo 11: Add gravel for the footings
Fill and level in gravel about 12 in. below the reference mark. Adjust and level the footing until the timber is level and at the correct height. Use it to set the second timber.

Photo 11: Add gravel for the footings
Fill and level in gravel about 12 in. below the reference mark. Adjust and level the footing until the timber is level and at the correct height. Use it to set the second timber.
Unlike the deck, our landing doesn’t have frost footings. Instead, it “floats” on landscape timbers supported by gravel. This system works best in spots that have little slope. If you have more slope, build a smaller landing or build it on regular footings and posts. If you choose to make a smaller landing, make sure it extends at least 3 ft. in front of the stairs.

Nail the landing frame together first, then square it by adjusting it until diagonal measurements match and brace it to hold it square. Position it and use it as a pattern to lay out the 6×6 footings (Photo 10). Drive positioning stakes so you’ll be able to replace it in the same location later.

Then set the landing frame aside and dig the footing trenches with a fairly level bottom 20 in. below the reference mark. Add about 6 in. of gravel and set the 6x6s so they’re level and at the right height (7-1/4 in. below the reference mark; Photo 11). If you’re building stairs from scratch, just make the final height of the landing at any multiple of 7-1/4 in., measured from the top of the deck framing to the landing framing.

You’ll undoubtedly have to fool around with removing, adding and leveling the gravel to get the 6×6 heights accurate. Adjust the gravel level and then test it again. Start with the timber nearest the deck. Lay the timber on the gravel; check it for level and for spacing down from the reference mark. It’ll take you several attempts to get it right. Then level from the first timber over to the second one to set it at the same height. Then dig the footings and lay in the short 6×6 timbers that support the lower step framing (Photo 12).

Toenail the frame to the timbers and finish framing the landing as shown in Figure A. Then trim and deck the landing.

STEP- 7: Build the stairs

Photo 13: Duplicate the old stringers
Trace the stair layout onto a 2×10 using an old stringer as a pattern. Cut and test-fit the stringer. Then use it as a pattern to cut three more stringers.

Photo 14: Fasten stringers to skirts
Toe-screw the skirt boards to the deck rim, and then screw the hanger board to the deck rim between them. Screw the skirts into the ends of the hanger board. Screw the two outer stringers to the skirts, then align both stringer assemblies and toe-screw them to the deck landing.

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Figure B: Stair construction
Skirt boards add strength and visual appeal to the stair design.

Photo 15: Fasten center stringers
Space the center two stringers equally and screw them to the hanger board from the backside.

Photo 16: Add risers and treads
Cut the risers and nail them to the stringers with 2-1/2 in. siding nails. Plumb and anchor the bottom newel post with screws and blocking. Then cut and add the stair treads.
The ideal tread notch width is 10-1/4 in. (it’s 11-1/4 in. with tread in place, and never less than 10 in.), and the riser height should range between 7 and 7-3/4 in. (never higher). But if you’re new to stair building and don’t want to start from scratch, use the old stair stringers as a pattern for tracing and then cutting new ones. However, the new stringers we show aren’t exactly the same as the old ones.

The stringers will be 2x10s that you’ll reinforce on the sides with 2×12 “skirts” (Figure B). Lay the pattern on the new 2x10s with the points of the stairs along one edge, measuring to make sure the overhanging edge on the backside is even (Photo 13). After tracing, measure and mark the top tread so it’s 1-1/2 in. narrower than the others. And mark the bottom “rise” so it’s 1 in. less than the others.

It’s best to just cut the bottom and top of the first stringer and lay it in place against the deck to make sure the top tread is the correct distance from the deck (the stair height) and that the angles at the top and bottom meet the deck rim joist and landing without huge gaps. Make adjustments as necessary and finish cutting out the stairs, then use the first stringer to lay out the other three.

Use one of the new stringers to lay out the cedar stair skirts (Figure B). When you’re laying out the stair skirts, remember that they extend 1-1/2 in. beyond the top of the treated stringers to hide the end of the hanger board (Photo 15). Mark the stair skirt positions on the deck frame and toe-screw them into place. In our situation, we mounted the outer one flush with the deck’s outer trim board to get maximum stair width.

Pick a solid 2×6 for the “hanger board” that supports the stringers (Photos 14 and 15). Screw it to the deck rim joist with at least four screws. Most of the stair support is provided by the skirts, so make sure you screw them to the hanger board with two 3-in. deck screws at each side and toe-screw them to the deck rim. Attach the treated stringers to the skirts with 2-1/2 in. deck screws from the inside where they won’t be seen.

Tack a spacer board (the length of the hanger board) to the bottom risers and use it to align and square the stringers. Then toe-screw the stringers to the landing. Toe-screw the skirt bottoms to the decking when they’re square to the deck and evenly spaced. Add the middle stringers (Photo 15) and then cut and nail the risers to the stringers so the tops are flush with the tops of the treads. Then anchor the newel post to the bottom outside as shown in Photo 16. The blocking is essential for making the post solid and strong, and it also supports the notched treads.

STEP- 8: Installing the guard and hand rails

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Photo 17: Rip the rails so they shed water
Cut 2×4 rail stock to rough lengths and rip 30-degree shoulders on it, leaving a 1-1/2 in. flat area on the tops.

Photo 18: Cut the rails
Cut the posts to their final length. Scribe and cut the rails to length. Number the pairs and their matching location so you don’t get them mixed up.

Photo 19: Attach the spindle connectors
Lay out the spindle positions so their spacing is no more than 4 in. apart and screw the Uniball connectors to the rails.

Photo 20: Cut the spindles
Cut the stair spindles to length. Cut the stair angle on one end of the stair spindles, then use an angled stop block to position the spindle for a parallel cut on the other end.

Close up
Cut the stop block at the stair angle.

Photo 21: Assemble the rails and spindles
Toe-screw the bottom stair rail to the posts. Then set the spindles over the Uniballs and drop on the top rail, fitting the top Uniballs into the spindles. Toe-screw the top rail into place.

Photo 22: Support the rails with temporary blocks
Rest the deck bottom rails on 2×4 blocks and toe-screw them into place. Tap the top rail over the Uniballs and toe-screw the top rail into place

Photo 23: Add the top caps
Cut and fit the 2×6 top caps to fit and screw them to each post with two 3-in. deck screws.

Photo 24: Notch the caps at posts
Notch one top cap halfway around a trellis post and screw it in place. Cut its neighboring one with a little deeper notch then scribe and cut it to fit.

Cut the rails to fit between each set of posts and label them so you don’t confuse where they go later.

You don’t have to rip shoulders on the 2×4 rails, but shoulders will help shed water and improve the rail’s appearance. Set the table saw at 30 degrees and adjust the fence so you’ll have a 1-1/2 in. wide flat spot between the bevels. (Rip with the narrow part of the 2×4 resting on the saw table.) Cut the spindles to length with a miter saw fitted with a blade rated for cutting aluminum. The Uniball system simplifies spindle installation. You simply screw them into place (top and bottom; Photo 19) and slip the hollow aluminum ends over them (Photos 21 and 22).

Scribe the rails for the stairs and then cut the proper angles with a circular or miter saw. Lay out and screw the Uniballs in place. Cutting the stair spindles is trickier than the deck spindles because the angle cuts must be parallel. That’s best done with a stop block cut at the same angle as the rails (Photo 20). The stair spindle angles will be the same as the angles at the rail ends.

Rest the bottom rails on 2×4 spacer blocks and toe-screw them to the posts (Photo 22). Then slip the spindles over the Uniballs, and starting at one end, work the top rail Uniballs over each consecutive spindle until the rail is seated. Toe-screw the top rail to the posts. Then cut and fit the 2×6 top caps, hanging them over both sides of the post 1 in., and screw them to the post tops with 3-in. deck screws. Assemble the deck rails and spindles and top caps as you did with the stair rails and toe-screw those assemblies in place.

You’ll also need to attach a “grippable” handrail between 34 and 38 in. high measured directly above the front edge of the stair treads. We used standard fir handrail sold at any lumberyard and screwed it through the top cap spaced with a piece of cedar. Choose the design that works best with your deck. You can use standard handrail and attach it to the posts with brass rail brackets or even buy premade 2×6 cedar handrail that has finger grip coves machined into the sides.

Privacy Screen
Follow Photos 24 and 25 and Figure C for assembling the privacy screen. It’s designed to be covered with climbing vines. Install the second row of rails and spindles, and then cut the privacy trellis posts to length. Rest the 2×8 beams on temporary blocks and screw them to each post with three 3-in. deck screws.

STEP  -9.  : Building the under deck screening

Photo 25: Install the trellis
Install the second row of rails and spindles, and then cut the privacy trellis posts to length. Rest the 2×8 beams on temporary blocks and screw them to each post with three 3-in. deck screws.

Photo 26: Add the screening
Frame a 2×4 support structure for the under deck screen about 6 in. back from the fascia. Cut the 1×8 skirt boards to fit the contour of the ground and nail them to the support frame.

Frame the support structure for the 1×8 cedar skirt boards from treated 2x4s. Space vertical 2x4s about every 3 ft. and screw or nail them to the joists (add blocking where needed). We held ours back about 6 in. from the fascia.

Screw the top horizontal 2×4 to the uprights just under the deck, and the bottom 2×4 a few inches above grade. If your screening is more than 4 ft. tall, add a middle 2×4 as well. Plumb and angle-brace each upright from the underside of the deck framing using 2x4s. Custom-cut each of the 1x8s so theyend a couple of inches above the ground.

Source: The Family Handyman

Techniques for Cleaning Surface Mold
Surface molds grow in just about any damp location, such as the grout lines of a ceramic tiled shower.

STEP-1. Cut stained or musty carpet and pads into 6 x 8-ft. sections with a utility knife. Using a pump sprayer, mist the surfaces with water to control the spread of spores, and roll up the sections. Double-wrap them in 6-mil plastic and tape them with duct tape for disposal. Wear protective clothing  and run an exhaust fan in the window.

STEP-2. Seal the room from the rest of the house. Cover the doorway with a barrier made of overlapping plastic sheeting and tape it to the wall and floor. Cover all air ducts in the room with plastic and tape.

STEP-3. Pry off baseboards and trim from contaminated areas with a pry bar and block of wood. Probe heavily stained or moisture-swollen walls using a screwdriver to discover and open up moisture damage and hidden mold in the insulation and wall framing.

STEP-5. Vacuum up moldy debris with a standard wet/dry vacuum. Buy an extra length of hose and run it out the window so you can keep the vacuum outside to avoid further spore spread.

For homeowners who aim to maximize comfort and lower temperatures within home interiors, investing in window film products is a good option. Through the years, the popularity of such innovative products has risen robustly. It is not surprising that, currently, there are numerous window films available in the market. Designs have flourished and evolved and shades have been practical and logical.

If you are a homeowner who aims to make your home more comfortable, and beautiful, you should be thinking about buying window films products. However, the immense number of such items may be hindering your purchase as you may realize that indeed, there are just too many brands and specific window films in the market. You surely will need some practical guidelines about how you can choose and then buy the best and most useful window films products there are.

It is always important to make the best choice. The situation is no different if you need to buy window films products in the market. There surely are too many choices, but if you will be guided accordingly, you will never falter to pick the best products your house needs. Here are several recommended actions before you go to the store to buy window films products.

Assess comfort

The main and usual reason why homeowners buy window films products is the incidences of increased temperature and glare inside the house. If you have glass windows, you should know that the materials are effective absorbent of heat and light from outside sources. The general function of window films products is to reduce the entry into the glass windows of heat and glaring daylight.

Without window films, home keepers usually put shades or blinds into glass windows. The problem is that usually, such items are not effective in controlling heat entry. However, light is significantly controlled, most of the time making the interior of the house uncomfortably dark. Window films products are better than those because these items regulate light and heat entry into the inside of the house. Choose films that will not totally shun light, but will reduce if not eliminate unwanted high temperatures.

Choose lighter shades

Heavily shaded or tinted window films products are disadvantageous in that there is a need to turn on lights inside the house or room. Some people like natural daylight better than electric-powered lights. However, heavy tints on window films block light from the outside during daytime.

It is advisable if you will choose to buy spectrally selective window films products. These films help reduce gaining of solar heat while at the same time, transmitting ample amount of visible light from the sun. Standard films do not usually make it possible.

Select long-lasting window films products

In general, films in window films products usually last about five to 15 years on the average. Film manufacturers usually indicate the expected life span of their products. Choose those that last longer than the others. This way, you can further maximize the savings you could generate. It is not practical to change and replace window films often.

As for product warranties, manufacturers typically offer five to 10 years to window films. That means, homeowners can be assured that the window films products could be replaced and fixed for free within the period, provided, proper and prescribed use has been conducted.

Cautions when buying

You need not invest in window films products if the glass on your clear glass window is thicker than 3/8 of an inch and ¼ of an inch for tinted glass. The items are also not advisable for cracked glasses. Frames like solid aluminum, concrete and solid steel will put heat conduction risks if there is a window film attached. Textured and reflective glasses should also be abstained from the use of films.

Be warned that there have been incidences whereon windows cracked due to build up of intense heat. Solar exposure of non-strengthened glass is also risky.

Article Source: http://www.energyefficienthomearticles.com

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The do-it-yourself homeowner who enjoys home improvement projects can do these projects. Do you want to Increase the comfort and value of your home? Do you want to fix up your home? Maybe you want to increase the comfort, or maybe the value and sale ability? A simple home improvement project can be an easy way to increase the appeal of your home. There are some easy ways to improve and increase the value of your home.

More Home Improvement Projects That Sell!

Do you want to fix up your home? Maybe you want to increase the comfort, or maybe the value and sale ability? A simple home improvement project can be an easy way to increase the appeal of your home. There are some easy ways to improve and increase the value of your home. The do-it-yourself homeowner who enjoys home improvement projects can do these projects. A home improvement project does not have to take a lot of time or money in order to bring great benefit – increase the comfort and value of your home.

Home Improvement Project – Kitchen

Simply paint the kitchen cabinets. A very simple kitchen home improvement project that most anyone can do is to repaint the cabinets. A dull, lifeless kitchen can easily be brought back to life by a new coat of paint on the cabinets. Select a bright, crisp color and a new coat of paint on the cabinets will change the look of any kitchen. With the sharpness of the new paint, the kitchen will appear and feel larger. It will look clean and fresh.

Also, consider changing the cabinet hardware. This is a finishing touch that will complete the cabinet improvement. Cabinet hardware can become dull and worn over a long life of use. This simple change alone will dramatically improve the look of your kitchen.

Home Improvement Project – Flooring

Old, worn carpet is thin, hard and makes a home look dirty and dungy. Replace old carpet with new in your next home improvement project. New carpet adds a soft touch. It looks good and insulates to some extent. If you have a limited budget, purchase good carpet padding and an inexpensive carpet. The result will be a thick expensive feel.

Home Improvement Project – Light Fixtures

Change light fixtures in your home. A simple home improvement project that anyone can do is change light fixtures. Start with the most out of date fixtures, maybe the kitchen or bathroom fixtures. With age brass fixtures dull and globes become dirty, drab and cloudy. Replace these fixtures and notice the warmth and freshness that is added to your room.

Home Improvement Project – New Faucets

Old faucets dull and wear with age. Replacing faucets will give the sink a fresh new appearance.

This home improvement project is much simpler than you might think. A plumber can install the new faucets for you can do it yourself. Visit your local hardware store for plumbing supplies and easy installation instructions.

Home Improvement Project – Painting

A fresh coat of paint is a simple home improvement project that will give your home a new clean look. Paint the exterior and the interior of your home. The exterior appeal will look inviting to visitors and the fresh new interior will make them glad they entered. This is a relatively inexpensive, simple home improvement project that you can do or you can hire a painting contractor.

Home Improvement Project – Driveway

A very simple home improvement project that will add a new look to the exterior of your home is to pressure wash the concrete driveway. Over the course of a short season, a concrete driveway will get dirty and grungy. Simply rent a pressure washer and wash the driveway. The process is not hard but it is a slow process. Be patient, it is worth it. The concrete will look like new.

Home Improvement Project – Landscape

Many homeowners enjoy working in the yard and you can too. Mow the grass, trim the shrubs, plant flowers, get out into the sunshine and enjoy yourself. Landscaping does not have to be hard or complicated; just make your yard clean, green and neat. Add a little color and you have a wonderful curb appeal that will catch the eye of any potential buyer.

If you need help with a landscape plan or what you should do, ask a local nursery to come and make some suggestions. For a small fee, a landscape consultant can provide you with a landscape plan that you can implement.

. The hardest part of any home improvement project is getting started. However, the results are worth it. Improve the comfort and value of your home with one of these home improvement projects.

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Home repair, on the other hand, is in a different category. Home repair is a project that is undertaken in order to prevent the decay of your property. It does not add value to the house, instead it prevents the value from going down. This includes things like repairing holes in the walls or broken windows. These repairs correct a problem, and therefore are not considered eligible for tax benefits.

There is a way, however, that you can include your home repairs in your home improvement deduction. A clause in the act states that if an area of the house in need of repair is in the same area in which remodeling is taking place, the project undertaker is allowed to claim the entire project as an improvement. Basically, if you are remodeling the kitchen, remember to fix the leaks in the roof and then claim the repair as part of the improvement.

Timing is definitely a factor when it comes to home improvement. The best time to do some upgrades to your home will be when interest rates are low. The lower rates mean that in the long run, the person using a loan to finance their improvements will be able to spend less money. Refinancing is one way that many people secure the money to spend on their project. Loans secured in this way can be deducted in the same year as the refinance as points. If the proceeds of the refinancing are not used to improve a house, then points towards the improvement can be deducted over the life of the loan. If a project only uses a part of the loan that was taken out, then the deduction is considered proportional, with the remainder being taken off over the life of the mortgage. It is important to keep in mind that the points which are not taken off by the time the loan expires are usually deductible according to the percent rate in the final year.

Improving your home, in the end, will always add value. It is important in terms of saving some extra money that the home owner is aware of what can be deducted and what cannot.”

Article Source: http://www.energyefficienthomearticles.com

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• home improvement