Photo 1: Tighten the packing nut
Tighten the packing nut on the toilet shutoff valve one-eighth turn clockwise to try to seal a leak around the nut. Wrap cloth or masking tape on the plier’s jaws to protect the nut’s finish. Use light, steady pressure so you don’t damage the water lines.

Photo 2: Disassemble the shutoff valve
Disassemble the shutoff valve—leaving the toilet and supply lines intact—then clean and flex the old neoprene washers inside the valve to renew them. Turn off the house water main before taking apart the toilet shutoff valve. Properly sized replacement washers for the shutoff valve are available from plumbing supply houses and better hardware stores that stock a large inventory of repair parts. If this step doesn’t stop the leak, you’ll need to replace the whole valve.

The plumbing supply shutoff valves behind toilets or under sinks can go for years without being turned off and then reopened again. That inactivity can cause the neoprene washers to become either brittle or crusted up with mineral deposits, and they lose their ability to seal leaks.

Occasionally, after shutting off a toilet supply valve to replace the tank plumbing parts, you may find that the shutoff valve leaks through the packing nut once the valve is opened again. To remedy this, most plumbing pros advise first using a groove joint pliers to tighten the packing nut one-eighth turn clockwise (Photo 1). If the neoprene washers are still flexible and clean, this should work to stop the leak.

If the leak persists, before replacing the entire valve, try this. Turn off the water at the house’s main shutoff, then disassemble the problematic shutoff valve without disconnecting the valve from either the water supply line or the line leading to the toilet. Unscrew the handle, the packing nut and the threaded valve stem (Photo 2).

Clean the washers with a cloth and flex the neoprene to try to get it supple again. Avoid gumming up the inside of the shutoff valve; don’t use any pipe dope or plastic tape on the valve stem’s threads. Reassemble the shutoff valve, turn the main house valve back on and check for leaks. If the valve leak persists, turn off the main water shutoff valve, then disconnect the valve and replace it.

Source: The FamilyHandyman

Check for defective dip tubes
If you have hot water problems (loss of water temperature and/or loss of water pressure at water delivery points) and your water heater was made between 1993 and 1997, you have a lot of company. During that time, nearly all the major water heater manufacturers were buying the same defective plastic dip tubes from the same manufacturer and installing them in their gas and electric units. Unfortunately, depending on your water chemistry, its pH and the temperature setting of the water heater, these tubes eventually break, crumble and/or dissolve into various size pieces.

The pieces clog strainers and filter screens on appliances and faucets, and the partial or complete absence of the dip tube severely harms water heater performance.

The role of the dip tube is to direct incoming cold replacement water to the bottom of the tank for heating. While it warms, the dense, cold water stays naturally segregated from the warmer, lighter water floating on top. The water for faucets and appliances comes from the hot layer on top. If the dip tube is missing, the cold incoming water mixes with the hot water at the top of the tank and you wind up feeding the house with tepid instead of hot water.

If you’re having hot water problems, first see if you have a water heater made during those bad dip tube years. Often, the first four numbers on the serial number are the month and year of manufacture. If the third and fourth numbers are 93, 94, 95, 96 or 97, it could be affected. If you have a bad unit, there are two options. First, replace the water heater and flush all the faucet screens and filters throughout the house. (If your water heater is more than 10 years old, it’s nearing the end of its life, so it’s probably worth replacing.) New water heaters have dip tubes that’ll last as long as the water heater.

Or second, replace the defective dip tube with a cross-linked polyethylene one and flush the debris out of the water heater and the screens and filters. You may have to flush the system more than once.

Source:The FamilyHandyman

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Photo 1: Cut out the damaged pipe
Shut off the main water supply valve, drain the damaged water line and use a pipe cutter to cut out a section of pipe that extends about 1 in. to each side of the leak. Start by gripping the pipe firmly in the cutter’s jaws and tightening the cutter’s screw. Rotate the cutter in the direction shown—as you tighten the screw handle—until the pipe snaps.

Photo 2: Clean and flux mating surfaces
Clean corrosion from the inside of the repair sleeve using a wire fitting brush. Clean the outside of the pipe with plumber’s sandcloth or emery paper. Brush flux onto all four cleaned surfaces.

Photo 3: Slide on the repair sleeve
Slide an end of the sleeve first over one pipe and then slip it back over onto the other. You may have to loosen nearby pipe hangers. Center the sleeve over the pipe ends so that about 1/2 in. of each pipe is inside the sleeve

Photo 4: Solder the joint
Hold the tip of the torch flame to one side of the joint and hold the tip of the solder wire to the opposite side. Pull the solder away when enough of it melts to completely fill the joint.

When a copper water pipe corrodes and leaks, or bursts from freezing, you have to fix it fast. If the leak is pinhole-sized and less than 1/2 in. of pipe must be removed, you can make the repair by cutting the pipe and soldering (“sweating”) on an ordinary pipe coupling.

But to repair longer sections, use a “sweat” coupling, which you can find at home centers and well-stocked hardware stores. You can buy a sweat coupling sized to repair 1/2-in. or 3/4-in. copper pipe. Mark the leak, shut off the main water valve and drain (or thaw and drain) the affected pipe. Cut out the damaged section (Photo 1), then measure the gap and, from the sweat coupling, cut a repair piece that’s 1 in. longer than the damaged section.

The key to a good solder joint is to keep the inside of the pipes dry, so keep a cotton rag stuffed in each pipe end to absorb dribbles of water until just before you solder. Open a faucet above that level to keep pressure from building up and dribbling more water into your repair. Then complete the steps shown in Photos 2 – 4 for a leak-proof repair. Once finished, turn the main supply valve on and check for leaks.

Sweat coupling and tubing cutter
Cut the repair sleeve from the 12-in. repair coupling stock. Smooth the rough-cut inside edges of the sleeve by inserting the blade of the pipe cutter into the cut ends and turning the cutter until the sleeve will slide over the pipe ends without snagging. Clean the sleeve’s inside edges for soldering with a 3/4-in. dia. wire fitting brush.

Source :The Family Handiman

Photo 1: Remove the handle cap
Turn off the water supply to the shower. Then pry off the handle cap with a small pocketknife to expose the internal handle screw.

Identifying a cartridge-style faucet

In this article,  fixing a cartridge-style faucet is focused only. Cartridge valves have a single handle and operate when the cartridge slides in and out. Don’t confuse them with single-handle ball-style faucets, which have a dome-shaped casing under the handle.

Replace the old cartridge with an identical new one.

Photo 2: Remove the handle
Loosen and remove the handle screw. Pull off the handle and set it aside.

We won’t deal with two-handle faucets here, which may be either a stem-type valve or ceramic disc valve.

Turn off the water at the fixture shutoff valves or at your home’s main valve. Turn on a faucet to make sure it’s off. Remove the handle as shown in Photos 1 and 2. If the handle sticks, try heating it with a hair dryer set on “hot”. If you still can’t get it off, use a special handle puller — an inexpensive tool available from plumbing parts distributors or home centers.

Now Pull the cartridge

Photo 3: Pry up the retaining clip
Pull off the stop tube. Pry up the cartridge retaining clip with a small screwdriver or awl. Remove the handle washer and then twist the cartridge stem loose and pull it out with pliers.

If it’s stuck, use a special cartridge puller. Unscrew the hex screw and hex nut until threads are visible. Slide the puller over the cartridge stem, aligning the tool ears with the cartridge notches, and twist to loosen.

Virtually every faucet manufacturer has a different method of securing the cartridge to the faucet body. Look for a clip or spring and remove it (Photo 3). Cartridges are often difficult to pull out. Some manufacturers include a removal cap with new cartridges. Align the cap with the old cartridge ears and try to twist the cartridge loose. Then pull it out with pliers.

If you can’t budge the old cartridge, you’ll need a cartridge puller. Make sure the one you buy works on your brand of faucet. Look on the handle or trim for the faucet brand or manufacturer. A knowledgeable person at a plumbing parts store may be able to identify the brand and model from a photo. Review Photos 4 and 5 for instructions on using a cartridge puller. Make sure you twist the cartridge loose before pulling it out (Photo 4). Take the old cartridge with you to a plumbing parts store or a home center to find an exact replacement.

Install the new cartridge
Turn the hex screw by hand until it bottoms out. Snug up the hex nut by hand and tug on the cartridge puller handle. If the cartridge won’t pull out, hold the puller handle steady and tighten the hex nut two full turns. Pull the cartridge out of the faucet body. Buy an identical replacement cartridge, align it properly and reassemble the parts.

Source :The Family Handyman

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What are  needed to do the Job ?:
1.An adjustable flapper->>

2.A toilet tank bag.>.

3.A fill valve  diverter..>

4.A Leak detection tablet.>

Proceedures:-
1.Install an adjustable flapper.
Several manufacturers make toilet flappers that can be adjusted to control how much water flows into the toilet when it’s flushed. Install an adjustable flapper in your toilet; then, experiment until you find the right setting for your needs.

Water Savings: Up to three gallons per flush

2.Install a tank bag.
Purchase a tank bag; fill it with water, and hang it in your toilet tank. It’ll displace some of the water, thereby reducing the amount of water needed to refill the tank after each flush.

Water Savings: An amount equal to the size of the bag

3.Install a fill cycle diverter
The toilet tank and bowl may fill at the same time, but they don’t fill at the same rate, (the bowl fills faster) and since the fill valve doesn’t shut off until the tank is full, this means that water continues to be fed to the bowl. So, where does this extra water go? Straight down the drain! Install a fill cycle diverter, a small piece that connects to the fill line and overflow tube, and that water will be diverted back to the tank where it can be put to use.

Water Savings: A half-gallon or more per fill

4.Check for Leaks
Retrofitting your toilet with water-saving devices is great, but it doesn’t mean much if you’ve got a leaky toilet. Pick up a free leak detection tablet from a home improvements store, and make sure your toilet is performing the way it should.

Water Savings: Varies depending on severity of leak

Important Tips:-

1.All toilets are different, so you may need to experiment to figure out which techniques work best for you.

2.Do not use a brick to displace water. Overtime it can dissolve and clog the drain.

3.Proceed with caution if you decide to use a plastic bottle in place of a tank bag. It could interfere with your toilet’s mechanisms, and result in overflow.

4.Many utility companies provide these water-saving devices to customers for free.

5.All of these devices can be purchased online, if you aren’t able to find them locally.

Sources:http://frugalliving.about.com/od/householdsavings/ht/Low_Flow.htm

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First Turn Off the Water Supply:

The first step in the toilet repair is to turn off the water supply to the tank. If you do not have a localized shut off valve, you need to shut off the water supply at the water meter.

Remove Old Drain Valve Flapper or Ball Assembly:

Once the water supply is turned off, flush the toilet to drain the tank of most of the water.
Remove the old tank ball or flapper ball along with any guide wires or flush lever chain. You want nothing left of the drain valve assembly. You want just the drain valve seat to be exposed.

Be careful not to drop anything into the drain valve opening or you could cause a clog.

Remove Excess Tank Water

Once the tank is drained and the old valve ball is removed, there will still be water left in the very bottom of the tank between the tank bottom and the top of the flush valve seat. This water needs to be removed and the easiest way to do this is to use a sponge. I’ve found a wallpaper sponge works pretty well. If you don’t have one handy any sponge will do.
Sop up the water, squeeze it out into the sink and repeat until the tank is fully drained.

Repairing a Leaky Toilet Tank Flush Valve:

If the old drain valve seat is brass (most are) it needs to be cleaned. The easiest way is to use steel wool or fine sandpaper and clean the seat of any residual debris.
Rinse it off with a soft cloth and then dry it fully with a towel or hair dryer. If you use a hair dryer be sure not to heat just one spot for a long time.

Install Sealant Ring Onto Drain Valve Seat.

The slickest part of this retrofit system by Fluidmaster is the sealant ring they provide. Just peel and stick!
Well, OK, not quite that easy but almost. Just peel the paper from one side, then carefully center it over the opening of the cleaned valve seat. Press lightly to set it in place. DO NOT PRESS TOO HARD!

Flapper Ball Assembly Detail

In this picture you can see the ridges under the flapper ball valve seat that will be pressed into the sealant putty. This will create a strong watertight seal.

Position the Flapper Ball Valve Assembly

*Before you remove the paper on the sealant ring, test fit the best location of the flapper ball valve assembly.

*Try to position at about a 45° angle so that the tank ball can freely pivot and open fully when lifted by the chain.

*The chain should pull straight up or angled slightly back toward the hinge of the tank ball.

*Once you have the proper location, remove the paper from the sealant ring.

*Place the flapper ball valve assembly over the sealant ring in the proper position and press down firmly to seat the bottom into the sealant ring.
Attach Lift Chain

With the new valve assembly firmly seated in position, the next step is to attach the lift chain:
*Make sure the tank ball is closed.

*Make sure the toilet flush lever is down.

*Connect the chain attachment clip to the hole in the flush lever.

*Connect the clip to the proper plastic chain link so as to provide a slight slack in the chain.

*Trim unneeded chain links leaving a few extra hanging from the attachment clip.

Turn on Water Supply and Fill Tank

All that’s left is to turn the water supply back on, let the tank fill up and check the flush operation. If you need to adjust the chain length to achieve proper operation do it now. Once the flapper ball lifts up and the fill cup tilts back to fill with water, the valve is operating properly.

You’re done! This problem won’t bother you again for a while and you just saved over $100 in repair bills.

Sources:http://homerepair.about.com/od/plumbingrepair/ss/toilet_flap555.htm

Fill Valve and
Flush valve
The Fill Valve is the mechanism that fills the tank with water. It is also known as a Ballcock valve or sometimes a refill valve. It comes in four variations:

*Plunger Type Fill Valve
*Diaphragm Type Fill Valve
*Float Cup Type Fill Valve
*Floatless Type Fill Valve
*Toilet Fill Valves / Ballcocks

The Flush Valve is what releases the water stored in the tank, closes the flow of water into the toilet and allows the tank to refill for the next use. It is the assembly that bolts to the bottom of the tank and includes the overflow pipe and the valve seat. The flush valve has two common variations used to seal the valve seat:

*Tapered Rubber Float Ball or
*Flapper Ball (tank flapper)

Flush Valves

The flush valve can use a tapered rubber float ball or a flapper ball to control the flow of water into the toilet.
Flapper balls are common on newer flush valves and are connected to the handle lift arm with a lift chain.

Toilet Tank Flapper Ball
Float balls are more common on older style flush valves and are designed to lift and drop into the valve opening. The float ball is connected to the handle lift arm by a lift wire that runs through a guide arm attached to the overflow pipe.

Toilet Tanks With Float Balls

Two types of ballcocks have been around the longest. They are the plunger fill valve and diaphragm type fill valve ballcocks.
The float ball and plunger or diaphragm fill valve or ballcock combination have been used in toilets for many decades. The float ball is hollow and floats on top of the water as it is being filled in the tank. When the water gets to the desired level, the float ball moves the float arm and turns off the water flow in the ballcock. By bending the float arm you can “fine tune” the point at which the water turns off and stops filling the tank.

Problem: Toilet Runs Constantly:

Possible Solutions:-

*Lift chain is disconnected from handle lever or is kinked preventing the flush ball or flap from properly seating
*Lift wire is kinked or binding
*Float ball is rubbing on side of tank
*Plunger or diaphragm type ballcock is not shutting off completely. Bend float arm to push float ball more into water.
*Water level in tank is too high and water is running into overflow pipe. Adjust water level in tank.
*Flush valve not sealing. Inspect tank ball or flapper ball and replace if worn or soft. See Repairing a Leaky Toilet Tank *Flush Valve
*Make sure tank ball lift wire is straight and that tank ball is dropping onto the center of the flush valve opening.
*Replace leaky float ball.
*Replace faulty ballcock.

Problem:- Toilet Handle Loose
Possible Solutions:-

*Reconnect lift wire or lift chain from handle, it is disconnected.
*Adjust handle mounting nut inside tank. It has reverse threads so rotate counterclockwise to tighten.

Problem:- Water on Floor
Possible Solutions:-
*Tighten loose water connection to tank.
*Tighten tank bolts.
*Condensation is forming in summer, insulate inside of tank.
*Replace wax ring in toilet base.

Problem:- Toilet Clogged
Possible Solutions:-

*This repair will require either a ball or flange plunger or possibly a water closet auger.
*See the tutorial How to Unclog a Toilet.
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Sources:http://homerepair.about.com/od/plumbingrepair/ss/tlt_repair_gnl.htm

Introduction
One of the most common household problems we all face from time to time is the clogged toilet. Fortunately most clogs can be fixed by using the correct type of plunger, but most people use the wrong type. We’ll discuss the right tool to use and proper method to plunge your way clear to freedom. Also, we’ll review what to do if the clog is a bit more stubborn.

Is It A Difficult Job: No, It is easy.

Tools to be Used:
*Ball Plunger or Flange Plunger

*Water Closet Auger (for stubborn clogs)

Do Not Use the Cup Plunger for Toilets

There are two basic types of plungers. The “cup” plunger and the “flange” type plunger. The cup plunger is what most people have in their homes and is designed for creating a seal against a flat surface such as the bottom of a sink or bathtub.

Toilets however have a bowl shape and cup plungers don’t work because they lose their seal when you pull up. For use with toilets, you need the Flange Plunger.

The Right Tool is Flange Plunger

The special bowl shape of a toilet requires a special plunger shape. And that shape is reflected in the flange plunger or a similar one called a ball plunger. Both these plungers have a specially shaped bottom designed to seal the opening in the bottom of a toilet bowl and maintain the required vacuum and pressure during the plunging action.

Make the Plunge
Once you see that the toilet is draining slowly or is stopped up, do not flush it again. It’s time to use the flange plunger. Gently push the plunger through the water allowing air to escape from the plunger body. Once the plunger is sealed around the drain outlet in the bottom of the bowl, plunge up and down rapidly until the clog is broken and the water level seems to drop.
Next, you have to test to see if the toilet will drain.

Test for Drainage
You want to test and see if the toilet will drain once you think you’ve cleared the clog, but don’t do this by flushing the toilet again until you’re sure the clog is removed. To test for drainage you have to add water. This can be done one of two ways.
The first way is to slowly pour water into the toilet as from a bucket.

The second way is to open the toilet tank lid and SLOWLY lift the flapper seal at the bottom of the tank until water begins to enter the bowl. Do not lift the flapper all the way up or else the toilet will flush.

If water goes down the toilet easily, the clog is cleared. If not, then try again by repeating the previous step and this step a time or two more.

If repeated attempts to clear the clog fail, then move on to the next step “Use the Closet Auger.”

Use the Toilet Auger or Closet Auger (stubborn clogs)
.

The water closet auger is commonly called a closet auger or toilet auger. It’s a special tool that has an offset hand crank, a long sleeve handle and a special auger bit at the end to break through a clog or retrieve an obstruction like a rag. The auger bit is connected via a flexible shaft to a crank handle that you control. It’s reach is about 3 feet. Here’s how you use this tool.

*Some toilet bowls drain to the front, some to the rear. Whichever way yours drains is the direction you want the curved end of the auger handle pipe to face.

*Leave about 4″ to 6″ of cable between the drain hole and the end of the curved handle pipe, then tighten the set screw.

*Push the flexible cable into the drain and crank the auger clockwise until it stops then push forward.

*The auger may feel like it grabbed something or it may just break up the clog. If it feels like it grabbed something, pull it out to check. If it gets stuck, gently turn the crank back and forth or push and pull the tube, but never force the auger or you may break the toilet porcelain.

*After breaking up the clog use the plunger again to make sure the obstruction is cleared.

*Once your sure it’s OK, flush the toilet.

Sources:http://homerepair.about.com/od/plumbingrepair/ss/sbs_toilet_clog.htm

Well, in fact one just did. Water hammer can damage your pluming system. The shock wave that created the water hammer is traveling at thousands of feet per second and exerts pressures at hundreds of pounds per inch. So just what is water hammer?

Let’s take a look at what is and how to solve it.

Description of Water Hammer:-

Water Hammer (hydraulic shock) is by far the loudest and most common plumbing noise problem in the home. You hear it in a home having high water flow rates (around 10 feet per second) when a faucet or water valve is shut off quickly.
Older homes have (or should have) what is called an “air chamber” located on each hot and cold water line at or near each faucet or water inlet valve. The purpose of the air chamber is to act like a shock absorber for water when it is flowing at high speed under pressure. Since air compresses (it’s a vapor) and water doesn’t, the air chamber allows the water a place to temporarily expand into and softens the blow of the water shock wave when the faucet is turned off quickly.

Air chambers are often fabricated on-site by the plumber and installed at the faucet’s water supply. They typically consist of a vertical length of capped pipe about 12″ long or longer and are the same diameter as the water supply pipe. The problem with these things is that they are sometimes made too short and undersized and eventually fill up with water and you have no more shock absorber. The result? Water hammer!. If you have a water filled air chamber it can be easily fixed by draining and recharging the plumbing system.

A better solution to alleviate the problem is to have a mechanical or engineered water hammer arrestor installed. These mechanical plumbing devices are charged with air or gas and will not fail like typical air chambers.
.
Mechanical Water Hammer Arrestor
The ultimate solution? Design the water supply system properly in the first place with larger supply lines so that it has about a 5 feet per second water flow rate.

Draining and Recharging the Plumbing System:-

Sometimes you need to drain the entire plumbing system in your home. If you have a water hammer problem and older style air chambers, then you need to learn how to drain the system so that air can refill the air chamber. Although draining the system will solve (or greatly reduce) your water hammer problem, the problem will come back as the water system is used. It may be a few months or it may be a year, but you’ll have to do this again.

To drain and recharge the water in your plumbing system follow the steps outlined in this tutorial: How to Drain Your Home’s Plumbing System.
Sources:http://homerepair.about.com/od/plumbingrepair/ss/pipe_noises.htm

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The quickest and easiest way to replace a water heater is to have it done by a plumbing professional, but if you can’t afford it or really want to do this yourself, then read on. You need to make sure you’re following plumbing codes so calling your local plumbing inspector to find out what municipal permitting requirements and specific criteria they may have is a good idea. But replacing a water heater is not extremely hard, and if you follow this tutorial you’ll be back in hot water in no time. Well, plan on a good 4 to 6 hours anyway.

Selecting Your New Water Heater
When selecting your new water heater it’s easiest to keep the same fuel type, whether gas or electric. That is the assumption made in this tutorial, that you’ll keep the same fuel type as the water heater you’re replacing. You can change the size a bit however. For example, let’s say you had a 40 gallon and want to go to a 50 gallon. That should not be a problem as long as you have clearance between the heater and the wall.

Prepare for the Installation
Before you start, check these next points to make sure you’re ready to go when the new water heater arrives.

Check the Plumbing
Measure the center-to-center dimension between the hot and cold water pipes on the top of the water heater and try to ensure the new heater has the same dimensions. That will make the plumbing job a bit easier. Take a look at the plumbing connecting to the old water heater. Make sure you have a gas union in the gas line if you have a gas water heater, and make sure there is a water shutoff for the cold water inlet pipe and a union connector for the hot water outlet pipe. If you don’t have these you’re job is a bit harder as you’ll have to cut the pipes to remove the old heater, then install the cold water shut off valve, and / or gas union or hot water pipe union. But most plumbers did the right job in the beginning so hopefully everything is in place.

Setting Up
Getting the water heater off the truck and down the stairs (if you have a basement installation) is a two person job. I also recommend renting an appliance dolly if possible. For around $20/day it makes bringing the new heater down and the old heater up a lot easier. They are bulky and heavy. Once you have the new heater brought down to the location of the old heater you’re ready to go.

Turn Off Utilities to Water Heater

*Before you do anything, you have to turn off the utilities to the existing water heater.
Turn off the water at the home’s main water shutoff valve or the shutoff valve at the cold water supply line running to the existing water heater.

*If you have an electric water heater, shut off the electricity to the water heater by removing the fuse or turning off the circuit breaker on the water heater’s circuit.

*If you have a gas water heater, turn off the gas at the gas supply pipe at the tank or at the main gas shutoff valve to the home. To make sure the gas is off check the pilot light, it should be out.

Drain the Hot Water Tank

*Once the water is turned off to the heater you need to drain the tank.

*Open the nearest hot water faucet.

*Attach a hose to the drain valve on the water heater.

*Place other end of hose over a floor drain.

*Open the drain valve slowly so that sediment does not clog the drain valve.

Disconnect Utility Lines
*Disconnect the hot water, cold water, and depending on the type of water heater, the gas line or electrical service to the water heater.

*If you have a gas heater, making sure the gas is off disconnect the gas line to the water heater.

*If you have an electric heater, disconnect the electrical service to the water heater.

*To remove the plumbing you may need a pipe wrench, slip joint pliers, or tongue and groove pliers.

*Disconnect the cold water line by disconnecting it at the shut off valve to the heater.

*Disconnect the hot water discharge line by disconnecting the hot water line at the union to the heater.

*Disconnect the flue from the heater.

Once the flue, water lines and gas or electric service have been disconnected you are ready to remove the old heater.

Remove and Replace the Water Heater
*Once the old water heater is fully drained and disconnected, you may remove the old unit.

*Have an assistant help to load the old water heater onto the appliance dolly and remove the old water heater.

*Clean up the floor where the old heater was located.

*Move the new water heater into position lining up the existing plumbing with the water heater’s plumbing locations.

*Using a torpedo level or full level, level the new water heater by shimming under the legs until the unit is straight up and down.

Install New Water Heater Fittings

*Next, install the various fittings that come with the water heater.

*Install the temperature and pressure relief valve and discharge drain pipe.

*Use Teflon tape on copper and pipe dope or joint compound on galvanized fittings.

*Install any other fittings as per manufacturer’s directions.

Connect Hot and Cold Water Lines
*Next, install the plumbing lines to the water heater.

*If the new water heater inlet and outlet openings do not line up exactly with the old plumbing, then use flexible copper supply lines.

*Add a shut off valve to the cold water supply if one dose not already exist.

*Connect the pipes using dielectric unions to prevent an electro-galvanic action called electrolysis which will damage your pipe connections and water heater.
li]Sweat the copper joints or use Teflon tape on threaded copper, and use pipe dope or joint compound on galvanized fittings.

*Connect Gas Line or Electric (as applicable)
Once the water lines are installed you’re ready to install the fuel source.

*Connect the gas line to the gas burner control valve.

*Use a flexible gas line if needed.

*Check for leaks by turning on the gas supply valve and brushing on a soapy water solution onto the gas union and all gas joints, like that at the burner control valve. If you see any bubbles, the connection is leaking and needs to be tightened.

*If you still cannot get a good seal without bubbles, call the gas company or a plumber for assistance.

For electric water heaters, connect the power lines and ground wire to the water heater junction box.

Attach Flue

If the water heater is a gas model you next need to attach the exhaust flue.

Attach the draft diverter over the water heater flue. There should be specific parts and instructions with the new water heater. Install the flue as per manufacturer instructions and local codes.

Turn On:
*Once all the connections are made, it’s time to fill the water heater up with cold water and turn the unit on.

*Turn on the cold water supply valve to the water heater and turn on the main water supply valve at the water meter if that was also turned off.

*Close the faucet near the water heater that was opened when you drained the water heater.

*Fill the water heater tank. One way to check when it is full is to turn a hot water faucet on in a remote bathroom or the kitchen and when water comes out of that faucet, the tank is filled. The water will still be cold.

*Once the tank is filled turn power back on at the power panel by reinstalling the fuse or resetting the circuit breaker (if an electric model); If a gas model, make sure the main gas valve is opened and light the pilot.

*Set the thermostat to a temperature between 110 and 130 degrees.

Sources:http://homerepair.about.com/od/plumbingrepair/ss/wtr_htr_install.htm

Why They Leak:
These faucets leak as the spring loaded rubber seals dry out, the springs weaken, the rotating ball acquires buildup or the rubber o-ring dries out.

Quick Fix:
To make a quick fix of your ball type faucet, proceed as follows:

1.Take the faucet apart and remove the ball assembly / lever;

2.Carefully remove the spring loaded rubber seals found in the concave bowl in the body of the faucet which held the ball assembly;

3.Remove the rubber O-Ring;

4.Clean the ball of any mineral deposits found on it so that it is smooth and clean;

Sources:http://homerepair.about.com/od/plumbingrepair/ss/ballfaucet_tune.htm

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Introduction:
Even if you’re not ready to replace your water heater with a new energy efficient model, you can still do things to save water, energy and cost.

Water heaters come in all types and sizes. There are natural gas, propane, oil, electric, tankless and solar models. They all vary in terms of first cost and operating costs. Tankless models provide on-demand hot water but cost 2 to 3 times as much as a standard gas model water heater.

No matter what type you have, some things will remain pretty typical in terms of how you can reduce your expenses in operating the water heater. Let’s take a look at some money and energy saving tips.

Water Heater Blanket or Jacket
..
When your water heater is not being used it is still storing hot water. And that’s when it can lose heat through the walls of the tank if they are not well insulated. This loss is called standby loss since it is heat lost while the heater is standing by for use. It’s the same concept as why you use an insulated travel coffee mug.
You can save 4% to 9% of your water heating bill and reduce stand by heat loss by 25% to 50% if you have an older water heater just by putting a sweater on it. Well, not really a sweater, but a blanket or jacket covering made of special insulation.

Older water heaters may not have come with an efficient amount of tank insulation. To see if your tank is a good candidate for a jacket, just touch it. It should not feel warm. If it does then the tank is not well insulated and a good candidate for this easy project. Look for a blanket with an R-5 to R-10 rating.

When installing, make sure to cut out areas so you can see safety markings and manufacturer data, thermostats and access covers. Leave a 2″ clear cutout around the gas valve and access door to the burner. The Department of Energy has good instructions on installing an insulation blanket on an electric water heater: Installing a

Reducing Your Hot Water Demand

The easiest way to reduce your hot water expense is to use less hot water. There are some pretty easy ways to do this without sacrificing the civilized convenience of hot water which is good as I’m not an advocate of cold showers. Sometimes a leaky faucet can waste water, other times an od shower head is the culprit. Let’s take a quick look at some easy ways to reduce hot water usage in your home.

Leaking Water Heater
Let’s start with the obvious. If your water heater is leaking it needs to be replaced. You’re not going to fix it. This tutorial will show you how to replace a water heater.

Leaking Faucet
Leaky faucets can waste many gallons of water a month. How you repair them depends on the type you have. These tutorials will show you how to repair a cartridge type, a compression washer and a ball type faucet.

Low Flow Shower Heads
Pre-1992 showers heads can use a wasteful 6 to 10 gallons per minute (GPM). Current models provide a comfortable shower with only 2.2 GPM. Changing to a low flow shower head is a great and easy way to save hot water.

Energy Star® Dishwasher and Clothes Washer Appliances
Energy Star rated dishwashers and clothes washers are extremely efficient. It can reduce your clothes washing water consumption by 50% or about 7,000 gallons per year on average.

Insulated Water Pipes

OK, this one is pretty painless too. It makes sense that the longer the water stays hot on its way to your shower the less hot water you need, right? Well insulated hot water pipes can raise the effective hot water temperature at your shower head or faucet by 2°F to 4°F over the same water heater setting if the pipes were not insulated.
The beauty of this is that you don’t need to insulate all the hot water piping but only the first 5 to 10 feet from the water heater. Use an insulation specially made for the specific diameter of your pipes. Securely fasten with zip ties or acrylic tape. The pipe insulation and fasteners are all readily available from the hardware store.

Sources:http://homerepair.about.com/od/plumbingrepair/ss/hwh_tips_2save.htm

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The sink auger consists of a flexible cable with a steel auger bit on the end. The cable is coiled within a drum canister. A thumbscrew locks the cable and as the drum is turned, the cable and auger bit also turn.

To learn more on how to use this tool, see How To Use a Sink Auger

Toilet or Closet Auger:
A water closet is a plumbing term for toilet, and a toilet auger, or “closet auger” as it’s also known, is a specialized plumbing tool used to clear clogs in toilets. You do not want to use a sink auger for water closet use or vice-versa. The toilet auger and sink auger are designed for very different purposes.
To learn more on how to use the toilet auger, see : How to Unclog a Toilet Fixture..

Flange Plunger:
The flange plunger or ball plunger is a specially shaped plunger used to clear clogs in toilets by the applications of vacuum and the force of water. The flange plunger’s special shape seals the hole at the bottom of a toilet bowl, unlike a standard cup shaped plunger which is used for sinks and tubs.
To learn more about how to use the flange plunger, see How to Unclog a Toilet Fixture.

Cup Plunger:
The cup plunger is probably the most common special plumbing tool in the home. It has a rubber cup-like shape and wooden handle and is used to clear clogs in sinks, tubs and showers. Do not use this plunger for clearing toilet clogs, that requires a specially shaped plunger called a flange plunger.
To learn more about how to use the cup plunger, see How to Unclog a Sink.

Teflon Tape:
This is an essential tool for preventing leakage at threaded plumbing joint connections. Teflon® tape is a versatile, common, inexpensive thin white tape used to effectively seal pipe threads being joined together for plumbing purposes such as shower heads and threaded water line connections.
It’s also used to seal air and gas from leaking through threaded connections like at your dryer.

Known technically as PTFE (PolyTetraFluoroEthylene), it is silky in texture and being strong in tension, it breaks in a stringy manner. Teflon® tape is sold in small rolls.

Adjustable Pipe Wrench:
When you think if the quintessential metal plumbing tool, this is it. The adjustable pipe wrench is an iconic symbol of plumbing repair.
This tool provides tremendous leverage and grip. Once you tighten the wrench around the pipe by use of the knurled knob, it is designed to grip round objects (such as pipes) securely by digging its sharp serrated teeth into the pipe with increasing pressure as the wrench is turned.

As a result this wrench is known for leaving teeth marks behind. I don’t recommend this wrench for removal of trim and if used that way, I suggest you use duct tape on the serrated teeth to protect the trim finish. More preferable however is to use an adjustable crescent wrench for fine work on trim that is visible.

Faucet Valve Seat Wrench:
The faucet valve seat wrench is a simple tool used to remove the faucet body valve seat so it may be replaced.
Compression faucets work by compressing a rubber or nylon washer against a valve seat in the faucet body. Compression faucets are the least expensive and oldest style of faucets. As such they are most common in older homes and where inexpensive faucets are used.

The handle of the faucet is attached to a faucet valve stem assembly. The compression washer sits in its own valve seat in the valve stem assembly. In the base of the faucet body you will find another valve seat against which the washer compresses thereby varying the amount of water allowed to flow through the faucet.

When the washer is allowed to wear down too far, the grinding action between the washer valve seat and the faucet body valve seat can cause the faucet body valve seat to become rough and no longer have a smooth surface, and leaks occur.

When that happens you must either remove the valve seat (simplest) and replace it (using the faucet valve seat wrench) using an exact duplicate, or you must “reseat” or resurface the valve seat (more work)

Faucet Valve Reseating Tool:
Like the faucet valve seat wrench, the valve reseating tool is for use with compression faucets. The valve seat reseating tool is also called a valve seat dresser or a valve seat grinder. It is used to resurface the valve seat in the faucet body if you cannot remove the valve seat or decide not to replace it.
The reseating tool is pretty easy to use. The key is not to use the tool with too much pressure or for too long a period of time or it will wear away too much of the soft metal in the valve seat. If that happens all you can do is replace the faucet.

To use the tool just remove the faucet valve stem assembly. Using the largest grinding attachment that fits into the faucet, insert the seat grinder until it rests on the valve seat in the faucet body. Use only moderate pressure to turn the tool clockwise until the seat is smoothed out and burrs or rough edges are removed. Clean the valve seat with a damp cloth to remove any metal shavings. Reassemble the faucet and turn the faucet on with full pressure for a few minutes to rinse the seat clean.

Faucet Packing and Washers:
Compression faucets rely upon rubber or nylon washers and a seal around the faucet stem. Older faucet designs use a graphite or waxy coated thick twine-like string around the top of the stem. Newer models use either a rubber washer inside the stem-retaining nut or O-rings.
Replacing the O-ring(s) or washer is easy, just remove and take to your hardware store to find the exact replacement.

For faucets that use packing, just remove the old faucet packing string and any residue from the stem. Then tightly wrap the new faucet packing around the stem. Trim any remaining excess packing string and just put the faucet back together.

Tubing Cutter:
The tubing cutter is an essential plumbing tool if you are going to be doing any work with copper pipe. With copper pipe it is important to have smoothly cut and squarely cut ends and well fitted joints.
When using a tubing cutter, hold the copper tubing and clamp the cutter around the pipe where you want it cut. Then spin the cutter around the pipe, tightening the knob slightly on each revolution to increase the cutting wheel pressure on the pipe. After making the cut you may find some burrs in the pipe’s cut edge. Remove these with a small file or de-burring tool for this purpose.

Sources::http://homerepair.about.com/od/plumbingrepair/

Well there’s a way to get one of the main benefits of a tankless water heater, almost instant hot water for a few hundred bucks. How? By using what’s called a hot water recirculation pump for demand delivery. This innovative little device allows hot water to be delivered to your faucet without having to wait for the water to run hot, while saving water and energy.

Let’s take a look at why you usually have to wait for hot water with a tank type water heater how the hot water recirculation system is your “fast hot water” answer.

Waiting for Hot Water
With a tank type water heater hot water is sent out from the heater to your faucet or appliance. As the hot water sets in the pipe waiting to be used, it cools off.
When you turn on the hot water faucet, all the cooled off water has to be displaced with fresh hot water from the water heater. This can be a lot of water volume in the pipes to replace, especially if the faucet is far from the water heater. The fresh hot water also has to warm up the hot water pipes before you get the full temperature of hot water you want at the faucet or appliance. This can take several minutes, wasting water, energy and time.

What is a Hot Water Recirculation Pump?
The recirculation or booster pump is a device that quickly draws hot water from your tank type water heater and replaces the cooled off hot water in your hot water pipes with hot water by sending the cooled off “hot” water back to the water heater via the cold water line where it is heated back up.
Think of it this way, when you usually let the cooled off hot water water run down the drain until it gets hot again, the cooled off water in your hot water pipes has now been replaced with hot water. With the recirculation pump, the cooled off hot water is just sent back to the water heater (through the cold water line) and very quickly replaced with hot water instead of being dumped down the drain.

The result is hot water with very little wait time, around 60% to 80% faster than standard water heater configurations.

Recirculation Pump: Water Heater Mounted:

This type of recirculation pump system consists of a 120 volt pump and timer that is mounted to the water heater hot water line, and a thermostatically controlled bypass valve mounted between the hot and cold water lines at the sink farthest away from the water heater.
At pre-set times on the timer, the recirculation pump turns on and hot water is circulated within the hot water line, making it available for immediate use at the faucet or appliance.

Some key manufacturers and models of this product are:
*Watts Premiers Hot Water Recirculation System
*Grundfos Comfort System
*Armstrong Astro Express Hot Water Recirculation System

Recirculation Pump: Electronic

This type of recirculation pump system consists of a 120 volt pump with integrated electronic controls and a thermostatically controlled zone valve. This system is a bit more advanced than the water heater mounted system in that the electronic system may be activated by a push button, a remote control or a motion detector.
The unit is installed at the most remote sink location. Some models have remote controls that you can use to turn on the pump when at other sink locations.

Some key manufacturers and models of this product include:
*D’MAND Systems
*Chilipepper Hot Water Demand System

Sources:http://homerepair.about.com/od/plumbingrepair/ss/how_water_fast.htm

How Pressure Assist Toilets Work
The only thing you’ll notice that’s different about a pressure assist toilet is what you see when you open the toilet tank. There is no water, just a sealed plastic inner tank vessel.
The pressure assist toilet works by compressing air in the storage tank as water (under pressure in your pipes) fills the storage tank. Then once the storage tank is charged, it blows the water out under pressure like you blow water from a straw.

This creates a strong flow of water that cleans the bowl better, removes waste better and flushes further than a gravity fed system. In fact, pressure assist toilets like the Kohler Pressure Lite can flush 50% further than gravity toilets resulting in cleaner waste pipes and less chance of clogs down the road.

This is important because as you reduce water flushing volume in a toilet not intended to have the reduced volume, whether by placing a filled 2 liter bottle or brick in the water tank or just using a partial flush, the waste material may not be fully carried to your vertical soil stack.

Some higher end and more expensive models like the Kohler Power Lite use a small electric pump to boost flushing pressure instead of compressed air. Expect to pay 2 to 3 times as much for these electric powered versions as you’d pay for a compressed air model.

Sources:http://homerepair.about.com/od/plumbingrepair/ss/toilet_pressure.htm

Difficulty Level: Easy to Average

Needed Tools and Materials:
*A New Sink of Same Opening Size
*A Plumber’s Putty or Silicone Caulk
*An Adjustable Wrench
*A Phillips Head Screwdriver
*A Standard Slot Screwdriver
*Teflon Tape for Threaded Plumbing Connections
*New Plumbing / Drain Parts as Required

Emergency Repair for a Leaky Single Lever Ball Faucet:

Ball Faucet Quick Fix:-
What do you do if a leaky ball type single lever faucet needs repair and you don’t have a repair kit yet? Well follow these quick tips and you’ll probably be able to stop or at least reduce the leak until you can get to the hardware store.
.
Ball Type Faucet Repair Kit

Why They Leak:
These faucets leak as the spring loaded rubber seals dry out, the springs weaken, the rotating ball acquires buildup or the rubber o-ring dries out.

Quick Fix:
To make a quick fix of your ball type faucet, proceed as follows:

1.Take the faucet apart and remove the ball assembly / lever;

2.Carefully remove the spring loaded rubber seals found in the concave bowl in the body of the faucet which held the ball assembly;

3.Remove the rubber O-Ring;

4.Clean the ball of any mineral deposits found on it so that it is smooth and clean;

5.Rub Vasoline® or other petroleum jelly into the O-Ring and the rubber seals to relieve their dryness and make them more supple;

Disconnect the Plumbing and Electrical Connections and Remove Sink:

OK, before you start disconnecting anything, please make sure to turn off the water supply. Nothing ruins a good home repair project like a flooded kitchen! There should be a water cutoff valve for the hot and cold water located under the sink. If not, then turn the water supply off at the main valve.

If you have a garbage disposal, then unplug it from the power outlet. Once the water is turned off and disposal unplugged (if you have one), disconnect the hot and cold water connections to the old faucet and the waste line from the sink waste drain or garbage disposal. You’ll need to disconnect the water supply lines that attach to the faucet tail pieces. Loosen the coupling nuts on the waste lines with a pair of large slip joint pliers.

Removing the Sink
The sink will be fastened to the counter top with a series of small clips that may be a variation of the photo above. Simply unscrew the clips to loosen and remove them. Then carefully lift out the sink with the faucet attached.

Prepare Sink Opening in Counter Top:-

Once the sink and faucet is lifted out, it will pretty much look like this. Just a big hole and none too pretty. Don’t worry, now is the time to ready the new sink for installation.

Make sure to clean the edges of the old sink opening of all old plumbers putty or caulk. Carefully scrape the residual putty or caulk with a putty knife if necessary. Clean the area with a household surface cleaner.

Install the Faucet and Hose Spray (if used) in the New Sink:

There is no easier time to install the faucet than when the sink is removed from the counter top. When the sink is removed you can easily reach the back of the sink, thread the faucet plumbing lines through the sink holes and tighten the faucet to sink. This is something a lot more difficult to do on your back and in cramped quarters if the sink is already installed.

Follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions for installing the faucet. Some manufacturers require you to assemble part of the faucet before installing it on the sink. The manufacturer will usually provide you a rubber seal to locate under the base plate of the faucet and the sink.

Place the New Sink Into the Countertop:-

Once the faucet assembly is attached to the sink, we turn our attention to preparing the sink itself.
With the sink still in an upside down position, place a bead of plumber’s putty or silicone caulk around the complete edge of the sink. Make sure to locate the putty or caulk near the outer edge of the sink so that it will make full contact with the countertop when installed.

Next you need to flip the sink and attached faucet assembly over so it is right side up. Be careful doing this as the sink may be heavy. Also make sure you don’t ruin the nice putty or caulk job you just completed at the sink’s edge.

Now carefully drop the sink into position. See, now you know how these sinks get their names as “drop-in” sinks.

Final Sink Attachment to the Countertop:-

Once the sink is set in place it will need to be tightened against the counter top. The sink is pulled tight against the countertop with special mounting clips described in Step #3. The spacing of these clips will vary by manufacturer so follow the manufacturer instructions. The clips are generally tightened with a screwdriver or socket. Tighten the clips a little at a time going around the sink perimeter a few times.
As the clips are tightened down they draw the sink tight against the countertop creating a self-rimming seal. “Self-rimming” is the other name for these types of sinks aside from “drop-in” sink.

Clean up any putty or caulk that squeezed out from the bottom of the sink edge as it was tightened down.

Final Plumbing and Electrical Connections:-

Once the sink is firmly fastened down, install the sink strainer or if you have a garbage disposal, install the garbage disposal sink flange and mounting ring. The sink strainer / basket assembly and the disposal sink flange will mount in a similar manner. You’ll seal the sink opening with a bead of plumber’s putty around the opening about 1/2″ in thickness. Place the new disposal sink flange or sink strainer assembly into the sink opening and press it into the plumber’s putty. Tighten from below until the putty squeezes out and the flange is tight against the sink.
Now hook up the waste drain lines and water supply lines. Make sure the threaded connections are tight and be sure to use teflon tape on all threaded connections to prevent leakage. Turn on the water supply and check for and correct any leaks.

Once the plumbing connections are made, plug the garbage disposal into the electrical outlet and test for proper operation.

That’s it, you’re all done. Now enjoy that beautiful new sink and faucet!

Sources:http://homerepair.about.com/od/plumbingrepair/

*Inadequate water used to flush disposal when grinding
*Grinding egg shells
*Grinding coffee grounds
*Grinding potato peels
*Grinding banana peels

Why Garbage Disposals Clog
Disposals clog because over time the waste line or trap get coated and eventually obstructed with food waste. Not all food waste is created equal. Here is a quick rundown on the most common causes of clogs:
Lack of Flushing Water
Not putting enough water down the disposal when it’s grinding is a sure way to get a clog. Over time the lack of flushing water does not carry the waste material fully through the drainage system and it builds up in the drain lines.

Grinding Egg Shells or Coffee Grounds
These items may not seem like a problem but are a big problem. Grinding egg shells or coffee grounds will create very tiny granular waste that will stick to any sludge in the pipe and quickly create a clog.

Grinding Potato Peels
Potato peels are notorious clog makers. Once ground up they form a starchy paste similar to mashed potatoes and quickly clog the drain.Grinding Banana Peels
These are a similar problem to potato peels except they also add stringy fibers to the mix.

Simple Fix
The simplest way to avoid a clog is to make sure you flush the disposal with plenty of water when it is grinding and for 30 seconds afterward. Then occasionally maintain your disposal by regularly grinding up pieces of lemon peel and ice cubes.

How to get Rid of the clog:-
If your disposal is draining real slow or not at all, the problem is most likely in the drain trap which is the P or S shaped plumbing line right after the disposal discharge.
To get rid of the clog, disconnect the drain trap and remove the trap from the discharge drain of the disposal. Check for clogs or obstructions.

If a clog is not found in the trap then the clog lies in the line going into the wall or beyond the vertical pipe going into the wall. That calls for clearing the obstruction with a sink auger.

For Stubborn Clogs: The Auger

If the clog did not clear by using the plunger, the next step is to try an auger designed for sink and waste lines such as a sink auger, (also drum or canister auger) or a plumbing snake. Of these, the sink auger is preferred for its clean ease of use and convenience. For less than $20, it’s a handy tool for all drains except the toilet.

*With the lavatory sink stopper removed, extend the auger cable into the drain. When you feel it against the clog, pull out about 12 inches more of the cable and tighten the set screw.

*Turn the crank handle of the auger with firm but gentle pressure.

*Extend more cable as required until you feel you’ve worked through the clog. This should work if the clog is in the trap.

*Repeat and then flush with hot water from the faucet once the drain starts to flow.

*If you have extended more cable than the distance through the trap, then the clog is beyond the trap, probably in the vertical vent stack in the wall to which the drain is attached. To get at the vent stack, see the next step as it involves removing the waste trap.

The Auger and Removal of the Waste Trap:-

For clogs beyond the trap, getting to them is a bit more work but still fairly easy.

*Place a bucket under the trap to catch the water that will come out once the trap is removed.

*Loosen the slip-nuts at each end of the trap with a pipe wrench or channel type pliers.
Remove the slip-nuts and the trap. Note how the possible nylon washers are oriented.

*Dump the water in the trap into the bucket. Water will also drain from the disconnected ends.

*As in the previous step, extend the auger cable into the flat section of drain pipe. When you feel it against the clog, pull out about 12 inches more of the cable and tighten the set screw

*Turn the crank handle of the auger with firm but gentle pressure.

*Extend more cable as required until you feel you’ve worked through the clog.

*Reassemble and flush the drain with hot water from the faucet to clear any remaining debris.

What About Chemical Drain Cleaners?
Don’t use them. Chemical drain cleaners are no friend to the environment or the drain pipes your plumbing system and can be very dangerous to use. I strongly recommend you use the manual cleaning techniques outlined in this tutorial instead of caustic chemical cleaners.
Chemical cleaners rarely work on stubborn clogs. After you try to use the caustic cleaner and it does not work, you are then left with a sink full of toxic chemicals that need to be bailed out by hand into a bucket and flushed down the toilet. Yuck.

Sources:http://homerepair.about.com/od/plumbingrepair/ss/disposal_clog.htm

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*wall mounted sink,
*pedestal sink,
*vessel sink,
*framed sink
*drop-in sink,
*undermount sink, and
*cabinet style vanity

Let’s take a look and see which style makes sense for your next home repair project.

Wall Mounted Sink…
The wall mounted sink is one of the most basic and common of bathroom sinks found especially in older homes and apartments. It is used most often when space is tight and so is the budget.
These sinks mount, as the name suggests, directly to the wall with no floor support. They attach to special hanger brackets fastened to the wall and wall backup. Plumbing waste and supply lines may either be exposed or concealed in a “shroud” or cover fastened to the underside of the sink.

Pedestal Sink…....
The pedestal sink is a classic. This floor mounted sink is commonly found in apartments, older homes and newer homes. Like the wall hung sink, it is often used when space is tight but is elegant enough to be used as a focal point in the bathroom design when space is not an issue.

As the name suggests, these sinks mount atop a pedestal which supports it off the floor and is fastened to the wall for stability. Plumbing waste and supply lines are concealed in the pedestal.

Vessel Sink..
The vessel sink is a fairly new arrival on the bathroom scene. This sink sets atop a countertop that is often fastened to a floor mounted vanity base which like most all vanities, is fastened to the wall for stability. Vessel sinks require a non standard faucet and waste drain system and are used in new construction or major bathroom renovation. The faucets for these sinks are either deck mounted on a pedestal or are wall mounted.
The sink, as the name suggests, is simply a vessel into which a faucet pours water. The vessel becomes an art object of sorts and can be as simple as a porcelain china bowl to granite or alabaster stone or blown art glass. The design options are essentially unlimited and the nice thing is that you can have a very striking and custom looking piece for a reasonable amount of money. Plumbing waste and supply lines are concealed in the vanity base or exposed but if exposed, they are designed to visible and attractive.

Framed Sink…
The framed sink is a commodity sink and installed in a vanity counter top. This style sink is commonly found in apartments, older homes and less expensive newer homes. They are installed into plastic laminate counter tops.
As the name suggests, these sinks drop into a counter top and are trimmed out with a metal “frame”. The sink itself can be porcelain enameled cast iron or pressed steel (usually the latter). Plumbing waste and supply lines are concealed in the vanity base.

Drop-In Sink..
The drop-in sink is often called a self-rimming sink or surface mounted sink and is typically installed in a vanity counter top. This style sink is very common to older and newer construction and remodels alike. These sinks can be installed into any type of counter top including plastic laminate, stone, tiles or synthetic composite tops such as Corian® or Silestone®.
These sinks have a lip that is over-sized to the hole and they simply “drop in” a counter top and are pressure fit to the top surface with a clamp system from underneath. This creates a self trimming installation without the use of a frame. The bathroom sink itself is typically made from porcelain enameled cast iron or vitreous china. (Kitchen sink versions are often stainless steel). Plumbing waste and supply lines are concealed in the vanity base.

Undermount Sink..
The undermount sink is clean looking sink found most often newer construction and remodels. They cannot be installed into plastic laminate or tile counter tops. They can only be installed into solid surface counters such as stone or synthetic composite tops such as Corian® or Silestone®.
As the name suggests, these sinks mount from the underside of the counter. They are slightly larger than the opening of the top, with the top creating a slight lip or overhang into the sink bowl. The bathroom sink itself is typically made from porcelain enameled cast iron, vitreous china, metal like copper or stainless steel, or out of a a composite resin material. If the sink and the top are composite resin then the sink can be manufactured integral with the top (like the “cultured marble” tops of old). Plumbing waste and supply lines are concealed in the vanity base.

Cabinet Style Vanity
I’m including the cabinet vanity as a style of vanity although it can be used with many of the of different sink types discussed in this tutorial. It can be used with vessel sinks, drop-in sinks, surface mounted sinks and undermount sinks.
The cabinetry style vanity can be a single or double bowl style and and can be a high quality piece of furniture. It typically has a solid surface counter top. Plumbing waste and supply lines are concealed in the vanity base.

Sources:http://homerepair.about.com/od/plumbingrepair/ss/vanity_types.htm

*Fixing a water hammer problem;

*Seasonal winter shut down of a property;

*Major plumbing repair.

Seasonal shut down of properties that are not used year round includes a checklist of many items to prepare for winter and having the plumbing system evacuated of all water is an essential task.
…………….
If you have a water hammer problem and older style air chambers, then you need to learn how to drain the system so that air can refill the air chamber. Although draining the system will solve (or greatly reduce) your water hammer problem, the problem will come back as the water system is used. It may be a few months or it may be a year, but you’ll have to do this again.

Let’s take a look at how to easily drain and then recharge your home’s plumbing system.

To drain the plumbing system proceed as follows:

*Shut off the main water valve at the water meter

*Starting at the top floor, open all the sink faucets;

*Go to the basement or the lowest level in your home and open the faucet in your laundry tub and let all the water from the above floors drain out;

*Now go back upstairs or to the highest level in the home and open the tub/shower faucets;

*Now go flush all the toilets;

*Leave the faucets in an open position;

*There should be no water coming out of any faucets except a possible slight residual drip from the lowest faucet as any remaining water in the pipes dribbles out.

*That’s it, you are done.

To activate the plumbing system and refill it with water proceed as follows:

*Close the basement faucet or lowest level faucet in the house;

*Now close all the upper faucets. Closing the faucets allows air remain in the pipes to recharge the air chambers you may have in your home’s plumbing system;

*Go back and open the main water valve to let the water back into your pipes;

*Now, one by one, starting with the highest level faucets, turn on the faucets and let the air/water sputter out until only clear water flows from the faucet.

*You may see discolored water come out at first, this is normal.
Open the shower faucets;

*Flush the toilets

*Once the water is running clear, turn off the faucets starting at the highest floor level and work your way down through the house. You may have an occasional sputter the next time you use a faucet but any remaining air will quickly be purged.

Sources:http://homerepair.about.com/od/plumbingrepair/

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